Before I put this on
 

Is an Accusump legal in Stock? I think it would really help my 340 live but I definitely don't want to go to the trouble then get bumped.
Thanks,
Mike

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Yes

AND Good idea

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what size were you going to use?

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what size were you going to use?

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I think I have the 2 quart Morroso (no decal) electric shut off but I'll do a manual valve instead. More changes to the oil pump-passages also.

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I ran a 3qt. unit and used an electric valve with a separate switch for it. This allowed us to prime the engine on a cold start. Shutting it off after starting the engine allowed it to charge back up. Turned the valve on going into the water, so it was active for the entire run, and then shut the valve off after making the turn off so the can could be recharged coming back the return road and/or back to the lanes. Worked great for me. I would want one on anything with a wet sump system.

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I'm not understanding your procedure. Doesn't the valve need to be on in order to re-charge the chamber? I have one but haven't installed it yet but I was planning to have the valve connected so anytime the ignition switch was turned on the chamber valve would be open too.Thanks.

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My thinking, might be wrong but, would the electrical switch run the battery down during the week then let the oil charge bleed off defeating the pre-lube benefited? Reason I was thinking mechanical.
By the way the cylinder is about 4" diameter and 18" long, how many quarts is that?
Mike

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You would want to use a normally closed electric valve. Valve opens with power. Closed with no power.

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You guys are overthinking it. You have the electric valve accumulator. It can only be open (allowing oil to flow from the accumulator) or closed (not allowing oil to flow from the accumulator). You open the valve before you start the engine for the first time (for example, at the first day at a race). You leave the valve open all day long, and at the end of the day, when it's time to put the car back in the trailer, the last thing you do is raise the engine RPM (and therefore, the oil pressure) a little bit, for a few seconds. This "charges" the accumulator. You then close the valve and repeat the procedure on Day 2, Day 3, etc.

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There's plenty written by the manufacturers of these oil cans to find out how to install it. Think about how it works and where the oil will go if there is no oil pressure, keep in mind oil will take the path of least resistance.
Usually the electric controlled valve will be wired to an oil pressure switch so it opens when oil pressure drops. The electric valve are usually 1 way check valves so the in is always open and the out is controlled by the switch.

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Sound good, I was thinking the switch worked the other way. I'll leave it like it is. I like the idea of attaching to a low pressure oil switch so it's not energized all the time. Any other pointers?

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ON is open in either direction. OFF is closed stopping oil from moving to the engine while allowing it to charge the can until pressure is equalized with engine pressure. Having the valve ON while on track, as opposed to using a pressure switch, allows the accumulator to "catch" a sudden pressure drop before it reaches a low point and keep the galleries full, since the can is charged to engine oil pressure. Having it open all the time requires the oil pump to recharge the can every time the engine is started since it will dump into the engine with the valve open. An electric valve also allows mounting in places that may be difficult to get to in order to operate a manual valve. I quickly found it inconvenient to have to start the engine, allow the can to charge, close the valve and shut the engine off at the end of the day. Just my experience with it.

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Absolutely NOT trying to be difficult, but I don't understand your comments about having to start the engine to re-charge the accumulator during the day, and about the inconvenience of charging it at the end of the day. The primary purpose of an accumulator is provide an "insurance" oil supply in a situation like the one that's often encountered past the finish line. Why would you charge it after every run? As you say, it's function is "controlled" by engine oil pressure. It "takes care of itself". After the initial morning start & warmup, the engine remains relatively warm and is certainly primed. At the end of the day, you put the front wheels on the trailer ramp, raise the engine speed a bit, close the valve and winch the car in. What am I missing?

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Do you have a separate switch for the unit or just tie into the ign switch? Engine running, it's open, engine off, closed?

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Separate switch. My switch panel has 2 fuel pump switches with only one pump. Used the unused switch to operate the accusump. Just personal preference to be able to control the valve and not have the thing dump 3 qts into the engine to be whipped up by the crank and then pump it all back into the can every time its shut off and started. Not concerned about uncovering the pickup unless it's on the track.

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I have a little different school of thought on starting and running an engine with an accusump.

If you start the engine with the valve open and the accusump empty it takes awhile for a cold engine to build oil pressure because the accusump will be filling the same time that you want all the oil going thru the motor.

I like the manual valve because I can keep it closed when starting the engine and then open it slowly only causing a slight drop in oil pressure when filling the accusump then leave the valve open for the rest of the day.

I run a 1 1/2 qt accusump with the engine at normal oil level, 7 qts with a 7 qt pan and nothing extra for the accusump, this lowers the oil level in the engine during the run, reducing splash and increasing HP.

My problem was losing oil pressure in the traps and using this procedure solved that problem because as soon as oil pressure dropped on shutdown the accusump would push oil back into the motor keeping the oil pressure up till the oil in the pan stabilized.


IMO it's like having the best of both worlds, steady oil pressure and a low oil level.

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Also keep in mind if you change your engine oil and you want to change all of it you have to empty the accusump too.
How and where you plumb it in is important. If you open the accusump with the engine off it might make the gauge go up, but is it flowing through .003 clearance or is it dumping back through the oil pump 1/2" hole and back into the pan?

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it is legal in stock,, I ran the accusump on my amc stocker ,, it was a 3 quart system with the 12 volt electric check valve
when the system is properly charged when installed and during oil changes, it provides oil pressure before the engine is started and protection at the loss of oil pressure

the one way 12 volt check is actuated when the ignition switch is turned on and the oil pressure and 3 quarts of oil from the previous start up is stored is released in to the port that's closest to the oil pump ,this will get you oil pressure on your gauge before the engine is cranked ,,, once the engine is started ,oil pressure and oil is stored back into the accusump and once the hobbs switch has seen the pressure it will shut off the the 12 volt check valve and the pressure and oil will be held at the engine oil pressure running ,,

hope this help the explanation

the hobbs switch activates when oil pressure drops below the pressure designated (they come in 15psi or 35psi

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Doug Duell uses one on C/SA Barracuda.

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The electric valve will allow the tank to fill regardless if the power is on or off. So if you prime the engine with a drill, it will also fill the tank. Wire the valve through the ignition switch, when you turn the ignition on, the valve opens and helps prime the engine.When you shut it off, it will close the tank. Simple

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Thanks all for your help, great as usual,
many ways to hook up as long as it gets the job done.
One other question, the tank has a snap ring on each end to hold the end caps. If I wanted only a quart in the tank, can there be a "stick" installed to allow the piston to move just that amount?
Mike

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I guess you could block the back like a shotgun magazine if you really wanted.

As far as an oil change goes read the instructions, you can go online and find them. You have to open the valve and force the piston down with air pressure and then reset the air in the sump when done.

The purpose of the accusump is to level out oil pressure, works great on circle track cars where they are on and off of the throttle and going around turns. I really don't see it pushing oil all through the motor on startup, don't see how it does much aside from making the pressure gauge go up. If you've ever primed an engine with a drill you understand how much it takes to get oil to the lifters, forget about through the mains and rods.

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So if for example, you set the pre-charge to 60 psi and your oil pressure is 20 psi at idle, won't you overfill the engine when you are staging the car?

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Follow the instructions for the precharge. I used less than 10 psi, just enough to get the piston to the bottom of the bore. Oil pushed into the bottom under pressure will compress the air on top to a pressure equal to the oil pressure. 60psi on top would require at least 60psi oil pressure to put any oil in the can severely limiting the amount available to protect the engine.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyaGoj60A6s
Watch the video and listen to the words pressure and volume.
When he opens the valve and the oil leaves the tube decide where it goes as it goes into the oil filter.

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as someone mentioned earlier you can also control the amount of oil in the pan. instead of dropping 2 qts for heads up, change accumulator pressure

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After reading all these post it got me thinking, would it be better to dump the tank oil back into the pan (with a one way check valve) so the pump could continue pumping from a steady supply? Or is it ok to dump into the pressure column since some volumn would be forced back at the pump even though its sucking air (more bubbles) at the time?
Mike

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Has to be plumbed to a pressure source - typically oil filter plumbing on the filtered oil side - or it will never fill.

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Yes, reason I said some type of one way check valve. But just a thought.
For the can, I plan on using the port where the filter screws on.

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I doubt the can could supply enough volume quickly enough to keep the pump supplied with oil. Better to feed the pressure side.

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Have all the plumbing match the feed hole in the block, don't make a restriction with fittings or hoses that are to small. If necessary enlarge feed holes in block

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I see your point, thanks
Mike