12V racing battery recommendations
I'm sure it's been covered before but looking for a lightweight 12V battery recommendation over my current Optima red top battery that weighs 38 lbs
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It is only a battery after all |
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I actually just posted about this topic on my FB page. I replaced my Optima with a Big Crank ETX30L AGM this season. Weight is 24 lbs and is half the price of a Braille B3121.
https://www.batterymart.com/p-Big-Cr...qWOStM0Zl4z-xU I received an email for 8% off if you enter "8offaug" this month. |
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Check out AntiGravity's line of batteries.
I found out about them from some off road friends and they are really rugged and dependable. And they are extremely light weight. A couple of my customers have switched to them with great results. https://shop.antigravitybatteries.co...extreme-power/ |
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If it's feasible, I'd suggest being able to swap back (quickly) from whatever you get to your tow vehicle battery. The battery gods and Murphy get together and take their life usually a few rounds in. :-)
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This is a subject on which I have experience and thoughts. With my super stocker and my bracket builds, 16 volts has been my choice for a few years.
However, I am softening with that stance and now think a conventional, lead-acid, or AGM 12 volt deep cycle is an overall excellent choice. In my opinion, the latest, high tech batteries are not yet completely developed to be 100% dependable in the later rounds that come close together when charging time has been little to none.. The Camaro I am building today will have a 27 series, lead-acid, deep cycle battery. It will cost about $110.00, run the car all day, but carries the penalty of weighing 50 pounds. It is trunk mounted and in this situation, the weight is an advantage. |
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Lifeline Batteries. Their race batteries are made in the USA and built to MIL-SPEC since the company also builds aircraft commercial and military batteries.
https://lifelinebatteries.com/produc...ing-batteries/ |
Re: 12V racing battery recommendations
Been running odessey for the last 8 years never had any problem and they are not expensive
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I have used two 11.5 lbs Braille battery's for years in the six pack car with zero let downs. Once the starter acted a little slow, battery was ok just a loose cable. My alternator works. I have tested and could go three rounds without charging in between rounds. I did cool car with sprayer until temp was reached then turn off fan. I change them out every three years.
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I used to run the optima batteries because they would last forever but they weigh a ton! Recently switched to the Odyssey batteries and have been really happy so far.
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https://shop.antigravitybatteries.co...me-power/v-10/
Hi Glen. The xtreme power 10 cell. |
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Just be sure to follow the charging instructions. Like any battery ,proper charging rate and voltages are key to longevity. |
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A few years ago my car wouldn't start for the semi finals at a race and I decided that this was not going to happen again.
Now between rounds I run the fan and water pump from the (2) deep cycle batteries in the trailer normally for the winch and jack. I run 4 ga cables to a switch box and then 4 way cable to a 4 pole plug. The 4 way socket in the car is wired in parallel to the normal wires. |
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Made 13 passes Saturday with a single Group 31 in the trunk, 105amp GM alternator supplying the juice, never had my charger out. Doubt there are many cars using as much power as mine:
Dual stock GM F-Body fans, over 20 amps each. Mezier electric water pump. Weldon EFI fuel pump. 8 injectors, though they take very little. 4 coil packs (DIS waste fire setup, like a GN). The last two hours ran the electric fan on the 2nd trans cooler, not sure what it draws. The last 6 passes were made 15 minutes between each, only got to the trailer for fuel. So....... Why mess with these little batteries you have to worry about charging when there are massive batteries out there that will never give you an issue? |
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I run one or two Walmart budget batteries (either 26 or 56 as I recall)
that weigh 26 Lbs. I have been for 25 years. Easy to exchange on the road if needed. They have recently gone up to $49.95. I do charge them in the latter rounds. |
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Stock the batteries MUST be exactly the same size. NOT just same brand and similar model. I got bounced for less than 1 Inch difference in length and same width in the same brand and model. This was in St. Louis
at Divisional last year in my Demon. |
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I work on electric forklifts and other small electric powered equipment and deal with deep cycle batteries daily. In a race car if you can handle the weight run a AGM 12 volt deep cycle and forget about them for 5 years or more. I have had good luck with deka brand group 24 AGM batteries. Weigh 45# each. I had a pair of them in the car for over 5 years and then moved them to the trailer and they are still powering the winch, lights etc. Plus you can leave them for months and still hold a decent charge.
Years ago had good luck with optima brand but at some time there manufacturing was moved out of the country. After that they did not last as long, not sure where they are made now or if that problem has been corrected. |
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Battery size is one of those areas that racers seem to receive some latitude on....but I’m all for letting sleeping dogs lie. |
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Perhaps the Tech guy was a tree hugger and mad at me for the tree destruction like Jim said ( Only God can make a Tree but any Fool can knock the darn thing down ). |
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They should be charged between runs with the correct charger. I have not heard of anyone having problems with these particular batteries, however ,I recommend that they be completely disconnected for storage and transportation between races. |
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