Chiller recommendation.
Do they work? Which type is best? How much do they cost? Who should I call? What all is needed? How cold do I go? Anything I need to change on tune up? EFI car. Fast system. How much does it pick you up ET wise on a 85 degree day . Thanks
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Re: Chiller recommendation.
A professional type 110V chiller can cost upwards of 2 grand. Most guys in Stock/SS either dumb the water at the head of the lanes and refill with cold water, Or use a cooler with ice water in it and circulate the water through the cooler.
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Re: Chiller recommendation.
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Brainerd Stock winner Chris Knutson uses this one: https://i.imgur.com/YAvvG6Hh.jpg |
Re: Chiller recommendation.
Here's an article I wrote a few years back about engine chillers. All it takes is a good-sized ice chest, a swimming pool pump, rubber garden hose, Jiffy-Tite quick connect fittings and a C&R one-way coolant valve.
http://www.laneautomotive.com/lanemo...ownEffect.html |
Re: Chiller recommendation.
I built a chiller a few years ago that refrigerated the water like the 2K ones, it worked great, all the same parts and pieces as the cooler full of ice deal. The only problem, my 7K generator could not handle the LQ A/C, chiller, pumps and misc. The cooler, sump pump, and a lot of ice is the way to go. We used to take plastic coffee containers and freeze ice and store up for a race with the stocker motor.
Sean |
Re: Chiller recommendation.
check your PM--FED 387
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Re: Chiller recommendation.
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Re: Chiller recommendation.
You probably should still get some input from someone on the tune up as well. You don't want to run the car stone cold, but I know of at least one instance of "overcooling" that caused a fuel injected car to slow in a very critical race.
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Re: Chiller recommendation.
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Re: Chiller recommendation.
Depending on what EFI system and what it is looking at to make tuning decisions, colder can definitely be a big problem. Any modifier that is adding fuel based on water or air temp could make it too rich or lean. Open vs closed loop and how much you allow it to add/remove fuel. As long as you are you willing to adjust the tuneup and these parameters it could make a difference.
Sean |
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Re: Chiller recommendation.
I'm not sure if it was hyperbole, but I heard somewhere (pretty sure it was Luke and Jed's podcast) that A-Dub's water was 40-something degrees for the Indy final this year.
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Re: Chiller recommendation.
I know that I’m old, and don’t know everything, but my FAST XFI LT1 EFI car is faster at 50 degrees, than when warm. Money spent for track rental testing was involved. Likes different timing and air/fuel tuning when that cold. Carbureted cars would likely gain the most with different jets. Or, a “heads up” carb jetted for it.
I have not had a car that was not faster cold. FAST XFI has coolant temp correction tables/capabilities you can dial in for using the “chiller”. Don’t have to touch a thing if you dialed those parameters in during testing. Just chill it & run it. Worth well over a tenth. |
Re: Chiller recommendation.
KDW 1403 check your PM
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Re: Chiller recommendation.
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Re: Chiller recommendation.
Here's what Jim Marshall told me one year at Indy. " Ice is for cooling beer, not engines." I still get a grin when I think of him saying that.
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Re: Chiller recommendation.
Kdw1403, after seeing several versions of the ghetto coolers i decided to build my own the cooler was $35 ,the 1250gph bildge pump was $90, 16ft of 1" rubber hose $30, 2 jiffy tite hose ends 2male 2 female $90.So around $245 and a 12volt battery source your good , mine is 5years old now and works good, just add ice and water and it will chill engine down to 60 degrees.
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Re: Chiller recommendation.
[QUOTE=MR DERBY CITY;598449]A CHILLER was instrumental in a racer LOSING a heads up final in stock at INDY a few years ago.....
That's the one. |
Re: Chiller recommendation.
You don't have to ice the bejeezus out of things to get the benefit of a chiller. Just recirculating 'room temp' water will give a nice increase in performance. I carry three 5 gallon water jugs in the trailer just for this.
As to how cold you can get things...it depends on the car. Generally, a carb'd stick car is going to have more latitude than a carb'd automatic. I've built quite a few of these. For those wanting to do their own, make sure and pay attention to the size of the hose, fittings, etc. for good flow while keeping the pressure within limits. Many of the 110 volt pumps being used have flow rates too high to be effective at pulling heat out. And pressures well beyond what should be used. Like anything, do your homework. ;) -Al |
Re: Chiller recommendation.
Was reviewing the available pumps yesterday and there are so many options and it's been too many years since I studied flow dynamics and such, is there a particular GPH flow rate that works best for pulling heat out of the motor? The CR-UC-BPCO17B check valve seems to be the most expensive component to buy, anyone have a good source?
Appreciate the help. |
Re: Chiller recommendation.
Jim, the C&R valves are on ebay all the time as surplus from various NASCAR/ARCA teams. Most of them have AN fittings for the hose connections, though. They pop up under different search terms so you'll need to dig a bit. -Al
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...ar+check+valve |
Re: Chiller recommendation.
Thanks Alan, I forget to search eBay all the time.
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Re: Chiller recommendation.
I at one point had a plan to build a chiller for my intercooler water using a air conditioner similar to the iceless cooling ones sold for a few thousand but just bought a ice maker and large cooler instead. It would work to cool down a motor as well, I was going to build it with a window AC unit, a cooler and a sump pump similar to what this guy built to cooler his computer: https://www.overclock.net/forum/133-...-chillbox.html
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