Clutch ID
 

Clutch ID
Going to try to post a pic...
Does anyone recognize this clutch?
it's going in front of a Doug Nash 5 speed crash box, behind a small block in a 65 Vette,not positive which release bearing to use..

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...oqSEUAlK&ifg=1

Re: Clutch ID
 

Looks like a Hays Mark XII, that's the paint has been removed. They stated the extra bolts would keep it from flexing. Was a few pounds heavier, looks like they did not use all the bolts. Probably use a flywheel for a regular six bolt pattern

Re: Clutch ID
 

Yep I think its a Hays Mark XII Long style pressure plate-- you will need a throwout bearing for a FORD if I remember right ---make sure the face of the bearing lines up with the levers on the clutch--- there are several different styles of bearings not everyone will work correctly---set the air gap fairly close as the disc will expand as it heats up--- Been a long time since I ran one of those but .028-.030 comes to mind --- if your flywheel has bolt holes for 12 bolts use them all it will prevent warping of the ring on the pressure plate--- set your clutch pedal fairly high so a slight depressing will allow the clutch to dis engage---- you don't need to go all the way to the floor with the pedal----if you want to shift from a forward gear to reverse gear push the clutch pedal down and pull the shift lever into reverse you will feel it pop into gear--- if you buzz the trans and it does not go directly into gear you might have to pull the trans and clean the burrs off the synchro rings --- if you booger up the synchro rings it WILL NOT go into gear at high RPM Shifts--- essentially you will miss the gear----use HEIM joints to fasten the shifter arms to the plate shifter arms on the trans--- great working trans we had 4 of them and after figuring out all the idiosyncrasies about them they worked flawlessly--also go get a extra set of snap rings for the trans you will need them----FED 387

Re: Clutch ID
 

That is an old hays unit. That thing will tear up everything you have. They are about 3000 lbs base pressure. I used to run one back on the late 70’s with a Doug Nash 5 speed. Broke everything I put behind it. Do yourself a favor and get a good clutch. I even took half of the sprins out of mine and it was still to strong

Re: Clutch ID
 

there are 2 different bearings a "tall" and a "short" version--- I think its the tall bearing --also make sure you reinforce the clutch fork with a gusset and use a home made rod from the Z bar to the fork with heim joints left and right thread on the either end and a bolt that holds the ends to the Z bar and the fork--- don't use the stock stuff it will flex and bend and its sloppy too--FED 387

Re: Clutch ID
 

Not sure if it's legal for the racing you intend to do, but you could easily soften the hit of that clutch with a ClutchTamer.

Re: Clutch ID
 

It looks like six of the springs are adjustable on pressure, using a Allen wrench , flip it over and see if it has a aluminum drive plate with a steel insert, or a cast iron drive plate. And a Aluminum flywheel, with a steel insert, would take some energy away from the hit. Could be a good piece, also depends what type of clutch disc composition you are going to use. And it appears to be for high rpm shIfting since there is no counter weight

Re: Clutch ID
 

Save yourself a lot of heart ache and do it right the first time, Take the guess work out of it, call Rob at Advance Clutch. You'll be glad that you did!!!


https://www.advancedclutch.com/

Re: Clutch ID
 

It's a long style hays thick cover fingers from the large circle appear to for the large Ford throw out bearing for the 13/8 input shaft

Re: Clutch ID
 

Its actually called a Borg&Beck/Long hybrid. The Long fingers are installed in a Borg & Beck cover, and I believe rather than use the Longs counterweighted fingers, they used the Borg & Becks roller counterweight inside the cover. I never ran one, but I understand the Long style forged levers have a faster ratio than the B&B versions stamped steel levers.

Re: Clutch ID
 

I have a couple of these pressure plates, in my collection of clutch parts. This pressure plate was conceived on some poor thinking. I would look for something with new technology. A lot of things have changed in clutches, . Be careful if you use this clutch, especially with the clutch material, rag or sintered iron. Do , some research, but the clutches have changed over the years, and this clutch was made with old thinking. Good luck

Re: Clutch ID
 

WOW!!!
Thanks for all the great info men!
I'm even more confused now lol
The disk is sinitered iron,the complete clutch came with the Nash crash box(no syncros)
The car is an ex-Modified 65 vette with a high comp.ratio tunnel ram 355"
It will see a little street driving to local cruise nights/car shows and a few visits to the strip.
I'm trying to work with all the old crap that i have on hand on a somewhat limited budget(as crazy as that sounds)

Re: Clutch ID
 

For what you want to do, just use the parts you have and add a ClutchTamer to the mix. Not only will the car be far less likely to break parts, but also very likely to be quicker than it was before.

Grant

Re: Clutch ID
 

It's really going to be tough running that crash box on the street, I'm interested in your thoughts after you get it going.

Re: Clutch ID
 

It may be worth a shot to give Roy Storey a call. He was the clutch guy at Hays for years. I’m sure he could do something with it. His number is 216-333-4900. Mention my name if you call him. Good luck with the project!

Re: Clutch ID
 

Understand that you have this clutch and it could a money issue but given todays technology with clutches, I would not put myself through that hassle and frustration. Remember it could be costly as far as time and broken parts...just my two cents. Call Rob Youngblood @ Advance Clutches. Rob is a SS racer and I am sure that he can help you out with this.

Re: Clutch ID
 

Back in the day every thing had a crash box. No semi truck trans had synchros. You just have to know how to drive.

Re: Clutch ID
 

It is simply a long(ford) style clutch with a cover with 6 extra bolts for strength. It does not have centrifugal assist levers on it, but you could simple change those if you choose to . I put a thousand or more runs on a pressure plate like this in my G/S 305 camaro, setting the record numerous times. I would keep backing of the pressure with the spring adjusters until it slipped a little going into 4th gear and then adjust it slightly tighter. If you cannot get it light enough with the adjusters, take it apart and remove 3 springs and try it again, or get lighter springs. If you are driving it on the street, back off the pressure and try it.

To answer your throwout bearing question, hays,mccleod, ram all did offer a bearing assemble for this application.Probably still available . It is simply a long style throwout bearing for a GM trans. The long style bearing is bigger in diameter where it contacts the levers.Some times if you have a GM bearing you can buy a regular ford bearing and press it off the collar and press the GM one off the collar and press on the long/ford larger one. Usually you need a tall style collar

hope that helps

Re: Clutch ID
 

Rod I've been driving a heavy truck for many years and still do, no syncros, shift without the clutch, no problem but driving one of those on the street is gonna be a PITA. I just really can't see having any fun with it. JMO