68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

Hi
Just picked up 68 SS in pces, I want to turn it into a bit of a poor boys stocker before I at some point restore it all.
It is currently a 396 325hp 4 speed car.
I was wanting to run a 396 as I have a few
Not sure 4 speed or auto
Was maybe hoping to stay under the radar of a roll bar, but not written in stone.
Any pointers and advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance

My first motor will probably be a 325 hp or 350 hp as I already have a bored block and pistons so I would like to use it and as I said to get it out for the first year or two it will be somewhat of a poor boy stocker, will not be setting any class records haha. Thanks !!!

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

Roll bar is a must as per rules ,that combo will require one

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

Roll bar it is 👍👍

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

Find someone who can make it easier to get in and out of the car..
Like being able to get behind the front seat, creative but with in Rules..

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

Buy a rule book, it will help more than you would think and save costly redos . Print a copy of 1968 engine blue print specs. Don't be afraid to speak with NHRA Tech, they are always a big help. Good luck!

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

Thanks for the responses
I have a rule book for sure and have printed out engine blueprint specs. Will just have to do some reading again to learn what I've forgot.
I will probably have a few questions over the build for sure, and will touch base with my division tech for sure.
Thanks again !!!

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

396-325 auto,proven combo. Down side fits in tough classes lots of chances for heads up runs.

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

Yes I was kind of wondering that also but One thing is until I can travel a little more most of the reasonably local NHRA opens that I might catch close by don't get to many cars, so might be a smaller chance for a heads up.
Other choice I have is a 70 nova I could use and maybe use a different combo.
The nova I have no issues with welding in a roll bar, Frame connectors etc., chevelle was a little on the fence with doing a roll bar in it, but I guess I would, want to do a little playing with one of them.

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

Look into the S&W roll bars. They make an awesome kit that fits perfectly without hacking up the car. For ease of entry and exit I would suggest a swing out bar. A little extra money but well worth it.

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

Sounds good, have used there stuff before with good results, thx

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

I have one currently in my 1968 Camaro. The car has deluxe interior which has a more robust door panel. It fits like it was made at the factory.

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

Definitely, you need a swing out bar. I built my first Chevelle when I was 29. I didn't have a swing out bar, but now at 65, I have had one for a long time. Makes getting in and out a lot nicer.I used a roll bar kit and cut it to fit and had a guy weld it together for me so that all I had to do was drill bolt holes in the floor and bolt it in. Make sure that you situate it to the rear enough so that you can put the seat in a comfortable location the first time, because it's way harder to move it later. Also, my main hoop mounting points are bolted to the frame with 1/2" Grade 8 bolts and lock nuts. Originally, the SS has bucket seats, my cars were all small block cars, so they had a front bench seat. In fact, my Chevelle wagon never had a roll bar in it because it never needed one. The 396 will definitely need one. Be sure you build it by the book, General Regulations chapter 4 has nice drawings and diagrams for roll bars, padding requirements, and driver restraint rules. I've never had a problem with tech with any of my cars, but it's important to build it by the rules in the first place. The Nova would achieve a greater degree of unit body stiffening with a 5 or 6 point bar, be sure and solidly tie the front subframe to the unit body, and the bar to both. I remember some big block bracket Novas and Camaros that displayed a bit of difficulty with doors closing properly after a time of racing because there was not sufficient lateral bracing due to the body taking on a twist. Best wishes on your new project!

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

Don't know which one has the shortest wheelbase, but the 68 car has a four link and the Nova is a leaf spring.

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

Thanks guys for the info, ya as I'm getting older to something that is simple to get in and out of will be a goal. So a swing sounds good for sure.
Yes I have always welded my plates to the floor and bar to them, but I might look at a bolting option with the chevelle. If I do the nova I will just weld everything yes and it is a unibody type with leaf. It does not currently have a 12 bolt but the chevelle does and has the full frame.
Thanks for all the feed back helps in several ways and gets the mind thinking, try and get it right the first time.

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

Get a rulebook for sure. You can’t use a “bolt in” rollbar in NHRA competition. Plus with a full frame you must cut holes in the floor and the bar must be welded to the frame. You will also discover the torque from the big block will want to flex the frame. There are bolt on frame stiffeners and boxing the frame helps a ton. You will also not want to use a 396 block either when searching for power. A sleeved back 454 or aftermarket block is a better investment. Good luck with your build. Do lots of research and save money. Oh and R&D for sure! (Rip-off and duplicate) lol. Just my .02 as I have been there done this.

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

Not getting the picture here, Greg. You welded plates to the hoop , then cut big windows in the original floor? How big is the hole? How many bolts ? How long are they?

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

396 350hp not available in '68 Chevelle. 325 or 375 only. 350 came in 69

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

I thought a full frame car like a Chevelle the roll bar had to attach to the frame directly or with outriggers.

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

looking at the NHRA classification guide for 1968 Chevelle SS396 cars I see it as 325HP /RPO L-35 the base engine in SS396 models--350HP/RPO L35---375HP/RPO L-78 are all accepted engines in a SS396--production numbers for base engine (325HP) were 57595 cars----L-34 (350HP) 12481 cars and L-78 (375HP)4751 cars--Correct me if I am wrong please---FED 387

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

Thanks again guys
I will get reading the stocker section in the rule book for sure been a bit, but I do agree about the frame flex for sure I have seen it happen to others.
Welding to the frame it will be.
Built a 84 camaro stocker years ago which is unibody and that's when you plate and weld to the floor,......but yes if you have a full frame it's different right remembering that now,but will get going over the book. Thanks for the tip on the block also remembering that now to, first motor is probably gong to be a more budget to get it out there and start on motor two after that. I want to run in the spring and I pretty much to the build myself so have to hustle.

No they made a 350hp ,396 in 68 it was available according to what I read.

Thanks again guys for the input !!

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

My mistake, it is listed there. However 325hp would likely be the better option

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

Build thread sure could use some fresh action.

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

Maybe I should have been more concise. I put 6" square plates on the floor in the appropriate locations for the roll bars, drilled through both plates and the floor, and two more 1/2"holes through both plates, the floor, and the frame. I trimmed the main hoop and got it situated exactly the place I wanted it, tack welded the hoop to the upper plate, and removed it. My welder laid a real nice bead attaching the hoop to the upper plate, then I located the rear plates on the floor area where the rear of the back seat lower section was. I then took the two diagonal rear supports and located them between the upper hoop and the rear floor plates. I tack welded them in place, removed the whole assembly and made the bar that went across the car where the shoulder harness attached, then tack welded that in place. My welder tig welded the whole bar assembly together, this being four points of the five point bar, then I reinstalled it in the car. The main hoop lower plates were bolted up with 3/8" grade 8 bolts and lock nuts, then the 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts went in, and I made two spacers to fit between the bottom of the lower plate and the top of the frame. Tightening the bolts down finished that part of the job. I drilled four 3/8" holes through each plate on the floor where the rear braces went, then made two more plates to double plate the rear attachment points. All attachment plates must be reinforced top and bottom of the stock floor, and then bolted to the frame. The rule book says that roll bars must be attached to the frame.It doesn't say that it has to be welded. Roll bars can be bolted in, roll cages have to be welded. That's from General Regulations chapter 4.
As for the diagonal brace to the left of the driver, I took a plate, bent it to fit, drilled attachment holes through the plate, the floor, and the frame and bolted it in place.The upper mount for the roll bar tubing was fitted in the right place and at the right angle to line up with the floor mounting point, and I tack welded that in place as well. My welder then finish welded the whole thing solidly, then I bolted the whole five point bar in place. Cleaning and painting the bar black and finish bolting it in place and installing the padding and the shoulder harnesses finished that all up. Be sure you panel up and carpet your rear seat and package tray area before any final installation of your bar. The stock bench seat fits pretty well, but it has to go in through the passenger side door.
At a later time, I tabbed up an upper receiver with a quick release pin and a lower hinge assembly and converted it to a swing out bar. It strongly resembles the drawings in the rule book General Regulations section, and it has never caused any hassles going through tech. No large holes were cut through the floor, in fact, this bar could be removed, the holes could be welded up and ground down, the rear seat could go back in, and this car could be returned to OEM. It probably never will, but it could be. I feel the bar prevents diagonal twist of the body shell, I'm sure a Nova would benefit by this whole thing more than the Chevelle because of the partial frame.
Best wishes with the success of your project. It's neat to see these cars still being built.

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

Nice reply Greg
I was kind of figuring in my head that you did something like that because I had seen something similar years ago and contemplated it on another car build I was doing a long time ago.
Thanks for the input, much appreciated.

Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions
 

In retrospect, it would have been easier for me if I would have taken the drivers door off. The front end sheet metal on this car all had to be replaced anyway, the door hinge bolts were all exposed and easily accessible. If I did another car, that is what I would have done.A unit body car, such as a earlier Nova, a Mustang, a Fairlane,a Road Runner, etc. still has to be double plated, one plate above the floor backed up by one below the floor, that seems to be legal, but I've never built a Camaro or a 68 on up Nova. The subframe connectors would have to be welded in some way, and that would provide a secure enough mounting point for the roll bar, but the best way to verify an installation is to see and look at another car that is already done. Having the door off would facilitate a lot easier installation of the bar assembly. Another woulda, coulda,shoulda that we all learn as we go along. Just make sure it's all legal. Rule book in one hand, cut off saw and welding rig in the other. About two years after my Chevelle was done, we went to Irwindale for a test and tune, and the tech guy didn't think my installation was right. He had his rulebook in hand, I called his attention to General Regulations 4:10-Roll bars can be bolted in, and 4:11- Roll cages must be welded to frame. I explained that I had raced at Bakersfield, Fontana, Vegas, and the Winternationals at Pomona and the tech guys never disputed anything. He backed down and let us in without any further argument. Best wishes with your projects!