Weight transfer
How do these stock and super stockers get so much weight transfer to stand up as far as they do?
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Stock; Clatracs and Hoosier radials.
Super Stock; Holt Chassis, or? |
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Build the car light as possible. Then add back necessary weight over back wheels. 3 speed trans, 5:13 gear, stiff sidewall radial slicks.
There I've given away all the secrets. |
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3-speed trans don't have anything to do with wheel stands either. There are lots of cars out there with a powerglide that will drag the bumper during the launch. |
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The best reply I know of is simply ......POWER-POWER-POWER. You can play the converter games, the traction experimentation and fooling with people that think they are racecar gurus but usually do not know much more than you do. If you have the proven power all the other stuff will come with some work.
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400 lbs. in the back sure helps...even with a 4 cylinder.
https://i.postimg.cc/9M8vWdRz/aca11d...3c1f8852bx.jpg |
Re: Weight transfer
Floyd,
Some of the wheelie is because of front springs and smooth moving front suspension components. All stockers and most super stockers retain the OE front suspension to employ a tall spring with stored energy. In addition, in many cases, they use quality, double adjustable shocks. The Caltracks that many stockers use perform much like a ladder bar and most of the SS cars have a four-link that allows some tuning of the wheelie. You already know it is not magic, just attention to detail. |
Re: Weight transfer
If you want to put it on the back bumper, put it at the back bumper. To keep it under control keep it at or near the axle center line
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I crawled under the car to find basically stock leaf springs and nothing fancy at all.. In a A/SA 427 with steel heads back then it's hard to believe he had a good front to back weight ratio.... So my conclusion 30 years later is that if you find the sweet spot(for wheel stands in this case) nothing else really matters..not that all thing suggested help,ofcourse they do....but sometimes it just works... other ways! p.s. Randy's Camaro did not looked worked on at the time...it was kinda rusty below..like left alone for 10-15 years..(I could be really wrong here) and I remember James Caro getting better et's with his Challenger but not looking quiet as exiting down the track! |
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Would you say most Stockers are 50/50 or better?
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The weight location depends a lot on the wheel base, engine location and the type of suspension on the car. I always suggest if you have the chance and the opportunity to do so, start by putting the car on the scales.
I also recommend Wayne Scraba's, Darin Morgan's, Rick Jones and/or Jerry Bickel's books on drag racing suspensions and learn the basics of the dynamics and vectors that take place on the suspension. https://www.amazon.com/Build-Winning.../dp/1557884625 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pow-pow901020 https://quartermax.com/the-rick-jone...-tuning-guide/ https://www.jerrybickel.com/complete...ce-manual.html I lost count of how many cars I see going down the track porpoising (moving up and down like a Porpoise on the water) because they have put lots of weight behind and/or on top of the rear end making the suspension to unload while driving down the the track. ...or, cars going down the track with the nose up in the air like a lowrider. You may have a nice weight transfer and wheelstand, but then you give up any gains going down the track by not having a rake angle. Let's not forget its effect on the roll center and pitching of the car the slamming on the brakes. |
Re: Weight transfer
...also, there are some members on this Forum that are very well versed on the dynamics of suspensions and they do it for a living such as Marty Rinehart, Phil Mandella, Randy Mans, Mark Markow and others that may be able to answer questions if they are not busy and available.
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How about weight at the cross member and the engine moved forward, even though some classes get an allowable setback
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when you remove all the ballast = AND there is usually a whole bunch of that. |
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Physics. Get the car setup right and it will work well. All the power in the world won’t help if the car isn’t setup right. My car pulls the front wheels and I have a grand total of $600 invested in my shortblock and heads. Plus I’m running an AOD trans which has a horrible 1st gear ratio. Spend your money and time on perfecting your chassis setup.
https://youtu.be/Va5Z-r5eaGs |
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Physics is more that the laws of leverage or fulcrum and that is were many miss it. The center of gravity of the car has to be considered the same as many other factors. Just because a car has a very high wheelstand, it does not mean the car is fast. One item people have to understand the concept of wheel speed. Hitting the tires hard on the launch, you hurt the wheel speed. About transmission 1st gear ratios, the selection depends on the engine powerband. You have to optimize the recovery of the engine Going from a 2.52 gear ration to a 1.00 high gear ratio, due to the RPM drop, is not for all engines. You also optimize the launch with the rear end ratio and torque converter flash and lock RPM's. By the way, I wrench a Stock Eliminator small block car has does pull the wheels off the ground, carries them without losing wheel speed and the 60's are better than many of the big block cars in the class in the mid 1.30's. None of the weight is on top or behind the axle. I also wrench a Comp Eliminator Super Modified car that has all the weight ahead of the rear axle and 60's are in the low 1.10's and I know that at the right track it will got high 1.0's. |
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My goal with my slow car was to even out the f/r bias. When i would pull weight off the front I would add that same amount to the rear. My car is now 50/50 with an iron headed SBF. As i progressed through this process my 60’/ ET’s improved.
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