Woodfin's novice build up of 2010 Colorado
This will be the mildest, least expensive build I have done in many years. The core is a 2010 Chevy Colorado "donated" to the cause :)
The novice has at least two meanings. First, my grandchildren will be driving it, and they qualify as novices. Second, my goal is to show the build-up with basic tools and supplies to demonstrate that an inexperienced builder can be successful. Would you please check back often as the project develops? Photos and details beginning soon. |
Re: "Family Tradition" a build for Daughter & Grandchildren
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The plan is to use as many bolt-on parts as possible without cutting or modification. CalTracs, 29.5 x 10.5 radial, steel wheels, all OE sheet metal, bench seat. Conventional first-gen SBC, powerglide, 12 bolt rear narrowed as needed.
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Re: "Family Tradition" a build for Daughter & Grandchildren
Plus, an old set of Lee Sheppard ported Turbo heads :) This will have an excellent throttle response for foot braking.
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Working on a truck is a beautiful thing! Remove the bed, complete access to modifying the rear suspension. After a time of thought, I plan to install a set of ladder bars. They will do everything I want in this situation. I will also install them about 4" inboard of the factory frame so that if in the future I want a larger tire it will be an easy upgrade. Installing a Chevy 12 bolt will also be part of this exercise.
Here she is on my trusty, home-built tables that allow placing components at ride height and allowing a good view of the fitment. |
Re: "Family Tradition" a build for Daughter & Grandchildren
Some notes, as I begin this project, I recognize the Colorado/Canyon as a good package. It has a full-frame, rack and pinion steering, coil-over front spring with a-arms, it is overall about 3" wider and 3" longer than the S-10. I expect it to be a very nice footbraker.
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Re: "Family Tradition" a build for Daughter & Grandchildren
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In the first photo, the front springs are removed so the suspension can be blocked at ride height.
The second photo shows the chassis blocked at one degree forward rake. The third photo shows the chassis blocked level. |
Re: "Family Tradition" a build for Daughter & Grandchildren
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Re: "Family Tradition" a build for Daughter & Grandchildren
What class you building it for ?
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When converting a factory stock truck to a drag race truck, it is necessary to turn all bolts anti-clockwise. Later, after modifying each piece, bolts can be turned clockwise.
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Re: "Family Tradition" a build for Daughter & Grandchildren
Jake, it is a footbrake [bottom bulb] bracket racer.
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Re: "Family Tradition" a build for Daughter & Grandchildren
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We are beginning the frame modification. The new section will be 5 1/2" inboard of the original frame. Once both new sections are properly installed and aligned, the original frame will be cut away. Having the OE frame remaining in place gives a good fixture for accurate alignment.
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We have good progress with the new frame section. When this is finished, the attaching points will be boxed and triangulated. Plus, the shock cross-member and roll bar rear struts will tie it all together
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Re: "Family Tradition" a build for Daughter & Grandchildren
'Singer... Are the rear tires like a 29.5 x 11.5 or 14 x 32? MB
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Re: "Family Tradition" a build for Daughter & Grandchildren
Maurice, 29.5 x 11. The wheels and tires pictured are for mockup, and I will likely run a radial in the 29.5 x 11 range. The bias tires pictured are new but several years old. I might run the bias for a few test outings.
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A few updated photos.
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When the frame mods are complete, all will be braced and triangulated as needed. Another cross-member will accommodate the shocks, and the Antiroll bar will be in front of the diff.
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Old reliable, simple, easy, ladder bar.
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Re: "Family Tradition" a build for Daughter & Grandchildren
Job change note: I originally planned on utilizing CalTracs, but after a time of pondering, I changed by mind [I do that ofter] and decided to make room for a wider tire and install the ladder bar set.
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The ladder bars and shocks are as far outboard as the new frame will allow. The pinion is centered.
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A fellow could buy a kit to do such a modification, but I like the challenge and the thought process of a custom design. I will have the overall idea in mind, but the steps between the beginning and the end are a process of one step at a time with some deviation along the path.
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ladder bars
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Competition Engineering Anti-roll bar
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It is not necessary to have caster wheels, but it helps.
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Strings are an important tool
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Re: "Family Tradition" a build for Daughter & Grandchildren
An interesting update. I have decided to scrap the plans for a conventional SB engine. Instead, to move my engine knowledge into the current century, I will be building an LS-series engine. Would you please check back often as we learn how to do a carburated LS drag engine?
More soon as I decide on which block and what size engine. |
Re: "Family Tradition" a build for Daughter & Grandchildren
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My preference is the Daytona Sensors Smart-Spark standalone ignition box. Allows for a clean and simple installation, offers many options for RPM control and after you map your ignition, it has small knobs to do adjustments at the track without the need of a laptop. Also, they have great customer support. http://www.daytona-sensors.com/smart...ol-module.html |
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SS, Thanks for the info.
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Re: "Family Tradition" a build for Daughter & Grandchildren
Couple of things I learned on my ls build. If you are using a stock crankshaft be sure to check the thickness of the flange on the back. Some early 4.8 and 6.0 cranks have a thicker flange (1.250) where the majority have a .857. The thicker flange uses a flat flexplate and the others use a dish style. A crank from a FWD car is different again. I used a Hughes 4004X flexplate it has multiple convertor attatchment points.
I used an ATI 917215 balancer which has timing marks and needed to be pinned to the crank. A few companies make a fixture for this but instead because my engine was disassembled I had the machine shop cut another keyway in the snout. Then used ATI 916631 drive mandrel for the vacuum pump and alternator. Worked for me. |
Re: "Family Tradition" a build for Daughter & Grandchildren
Larry here is a 5.3 LS motor not to far from you. $650 not bad for complete motor, easy to get 600 hp out of these with stock bottom end.
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