New guy with a Firewall Question
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Been on the forum for a long time. Have a firewall question with my 1971 Nova. I smoothed the firewall where the heater box was. Does this make the car illegal for Stock Eliminator? I had rather not have to put a new firewall back in if I don’t have to. I have looked at the rule book. Figured I may get a better answer here from someone who has been there, done that.
Thanks everyone |
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Re: New guy with a Firewall Question
Josh,
I have had several cars where I screwed a plate to the firewall to plug the heater core hole. Has never been a problem. You have gone a little farther. I would send this picture to your Division office for their opinion. If you don't get the answer you want go to the National office. Ray Terry I see a drivers side fender to firewall bolt and a passenger side fender to firewall bolt. I also see a drivers side vertical bolt fender to cowl panel and a passenger side vertical bolt fender to cowl panel. |
Re: New guy with a Firewall Question
I would suggest you get it cleared with the Tech Department.
The rule book reads as follows: FIREWALL Alterations prohibited unless expressly permitted in this section. Firewall coverings prohibited. Where heater/air conditioning units have been removed, area must be covered with minimum .024-inch steel or .032-inch aluminum, including rear hood seal/ flange, as on GM A-body. Minor firewall modifications permitted to C5 and C6 Corvettes for transmission installation. Roll cage tubing may run across top or side of inner fender well/strut tower and attach to frame horn. See General Regulations 7:4. General Regulations: 7:4 FIREWALL Each car in competition must be equipped with a minimum .032-inch aluminum or .024-inch steel firewall, extending from side to side of the body and from the top of the engine compartment’s upper seal (hood, cowl, or deck) to the bottom of the floor and/or belly pan. Firewall must provide a bulkhead between the engine and/or fuel tank and driver compartment. All holes in firewall must be sealed with aluminum or steel. In certain instances, fiberglass, carbon fiber, or other composites may be used. See Class Requirements or consult NHRA. Use of magnesium prohibited. |
Re: New guy with a Firewall Question
Thanks guys. I was building this car for some small tire class stuff. Planned to Mini Tub it and all that. Can't bring myself to Cut this car up.
The whole small tire grudge game has gotten a little out of reach for my 496ci BBC I built. Decided to look at Stock Eliminator. I have been interested in this class for a long time. I am not above putting in a firewall half to be compliant with the rules. I will email the Divisional office and see what they have to say. |
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I've seen a couple of firewalls done in a similar fashion. I have a 1969 Nova Body and I riveted a .032 alum plate over my heater box hole. At least that's how I read the rule. Looking at your picture, I'm thinking about your steering box for power steering pump could be a problem, as well as your brake booster ( Stocker cams will have very little vacuum for that) ! The Tubular A arms (uppers) and the Fresh Air Hood have to be removed for a Stocker or Super Stocker, and anything else like that, that's not pictured. The front inner fender wells bolt to the inner rail of the fender, under the hood and the outer front wheel well bolts with clip nuts. The forward portion of the inner fender well bolts to the Radiator support also with clip nuts. I'd hate like hell to build and finish a race car and show up at a Divisional and get turned away because some obvious infractions. I would either get a Rule Book or Read one on the NHRA Web site before continuing on with this project. No sense wasting time and money and thinking you're doing the right thing, only to find out you were misguided somewhere along the way. I'm not trying to discourage your build, but a little time spent reading the Rule Book before hand will lead to money spent in the right places. Mini Tubes are also not legal at this time. Good luck with your project. Respectfully, Henry Kunz 1534 H/SA |
Re: New guy with a Firewall Question
Consider this suggestion. You could rivet or bolt a cover plate over your modified firewall that would be the same size as if it were covering the heater box. [covering the heater box opening is legal]
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Re: New guy with a Firewall Question
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Decided to look at Stock Eliminator. I have been interested in this class for a long time. Josh, We welcome new people to the Stock/Superstock ranks! Welcome to you Josh! I hope you complete your project and we see you at the races! Ray |
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A BBC will hide a bunch too, if that's what you're planning. What combo are you thinking of? |
Re: New guy with a Firewall Question
Thanks guys. There are a lot of parts on the car that were geared more towards the small tire game. The steering box, brakes, tubular upper/lower control arms and front coil overs all would have to come out. Same with the leaf sliders in the back.
I am definitely gonna reach out to the Divisional office for clarification. No need to chance that. Like I said. I will patch in the firewall if needed. As far as combo goes. I must like spending Money. I’d be looking at a 396 4 speed combo. I have a massive amount to learn and a long ways to go. It would be cheaper/easier to buy a car done is what I have been told a hundred times. I have never taken the cheap or easy route on much of anything. No point in starting now. |
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That would be a 402 in a 70 appearing car. Otherwise you will have to change a few cosmetic items for a 69. Your last paragraph says it all LOL |
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Re: New guy with a Firewall Question
101- buy a car already done
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Well after a lot of research. I think I will finish this Nova. Sell it and look at buying a turn key car.
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Re: New guy with a Firewall Question
The firewall is fine
I would know |
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If you can finish the car, you're better off to finish the car as what you want to race. There's a huge advantage to knowing every detail about your car. By all means, get good advice on what to do, and what to buy. However, I suggest you buy your engine and transmission. The learning curve there is steep and expensive, you can spend a ton of money trying to learn to build a Stock Eliminator engine and transmission, especially if your goal is to be reasonably competitive in heads up races and class eliminations. One problem with buying a car is that you'll find yourself replacing a fair amount of stuff that you want to upgrade. We've done this, twice, and we bought two pretty decent cars. If you build your own, but also seek out advice from competitive racers, and spend some time at the track while you're building it, you can build the car you want, and buy parts one time. Of course, this assumes that you can build your own car, and you are able to purchase parts at reasonable prices. If you're paying for everything to be done, and buying parts at retail, then go find a competitive car, at least as competitive as your budget allows, and buy it. |
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You make a great point Alan.
I have spent the better part of 20 plus year building race cars. Mostly small tire Turbo and NA street/strip and grudge cars. I have no issue building the car. The Stock Eliminator Engine stuff is a whole new world. I like a challenge. I have been looking at the 1970 402 Big Block combo. Will definitely be a 4 speed car too. I need to sit down and look at the current parts I can sell. See what kinda budget I am working with. Then start scrounging for parts. I am in no huge hurry. Just want to get back in the mix. Have the Car. Figure may as well. |
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Cool. Best of luck to you. Oh, that Perrone clown? Avoid him like the plague! :eek: Just kidding. He's a good guy, and he's got a pretty stout ride.:cool: |
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Without going through a great deal of detail, on your choice of the 1969 396/375 verses a 1970 402/375 engine combination, I would tend to lean towards the 402 engine. Of course that's up to you, but given the choice that's the direction I would follow. Best of luck with your build. Respectfully, Henry Kunz 1534 H/SA |
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