Rules Verification for a Newbie
As I've posted in other places on here, I recently purchased an older built GT/PA car that I'm just starting to go through and verify what I have. As far as carburetors are concerned, am I correct that as long as it is the same brand (Autolite 4100 in this case), and has the correct venturi and throttle plate sizes called for, manufacturer date code doesn't matter? In this case, my engine is a 1964 based 289, but the current carb is a C6 PF (1966 289 carb). Has the correct size centuries and throttle plates as the '64 should have. I know to some of you that have been doing this a long time, these questions probably seem silly. I would never consider cheating, but I would hate to show up at a race and be disqualified because I didn't fully understand the assignment. So thanks in advance for answering the dumb questions.
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Re: Rules Verification for a Newbie
What you need to do is contact the tech department in Glendora. That's the ONLY opinion that counts. You "probably" have a carburetor you can use. Just get it in writing.
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The part # and codes on the carburetor have not
been a concern for many years now. The specs on the other hand certainly still are the concern. |
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same model, type, throttle bore, and venturi size. " |
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What combo are you running? As a general statement, the Ford combo is the 1.08 carb and the Merc combo is the 1.12. More to it than that but that should at least get you started on figuring out what you need.
Jim Caughlin SS6019 |
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Just make sure you have the correct bores on venturi and throttle blade. The date code, etc isn't an issue, just make sure you have the correct casting with the 1.08 or 1.12 ID on the bowl. For the most part the 1.12 Merc combos have been pretty beat up, most all of the cars you will find are running the 1.08 Ford combo in either SS or GT classes. People are also running the '68 Merc 302 with the Holley carb. It seems like the most preferable combo at the moment is the '64 Ford 1.08 carb combo.
Jim |
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Sorry Double post
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Sounds counter productive to tear it apart and eye- ball the parts. If you go that far, it makes sense to at least hone and ring it. Same for timing chain, bearings and other wear items. Instead, I suggest doing an external check of things..Leak down, compression check, check seat pressure of the springs, cut the filter open, etc. If it looks okay , put some fresh plugs and oil in it. Take it to the track and see if runs the index, before you dump a bunch of money into it. Where do you plan on racing it? Combos ? Divs? Opens? Believe me, nobody cares about the "legality" of another Fox body that runs a few tenths under. The only place you'd ever get torn down is at Indy. Trust me..you ain't ready for that scene. Again ,IMO ,and I've been doing this for more than a few years ;-) |
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I think he's just like me, want to get into it but am concerned I'll be illegal or do some obvious faux pas without knowing it.
"overthinking it" DEFINATELY fits me!! |
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Belts, helmet, weight, fuel...maybe..That's it ;-) |
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There are quite a few guys here that will help you spend your money, but it sounds like you've already got a handle on that. ;-) Good luck |
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Not-fer-nuthin' but........ you bought a running car in the middle of the season and you're going to take it apart to see if it's "legal"?
That sounds kinda counter-productive to me. IMHO, run the car as-is (it was bought as a legal car right?) and see what it has to tell you and learn from that. You'll have all winter to take it apart and freshen it or "improve" it. |
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Wesley Roberson is working more events and training some of the new tech officials.
Pretty refreshing to see some checks going on again. I agree, I would not expect a full on teardown at a points meet, but check the obvious safety stuff. 4 cars were booted due to loose ballast at sgmp race 1. They all fixed it and raced in race 2 They later checked some carbs and head casting numbers and rocker arms for stockers. They also checked me for a clutchless. They checked wheelbase on some SS cars. Great way to tighten things up and get some training done. I would look for more of this. I heard there were checks at the Earlville Iowa race as well |
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The only thing I learned from a friend who runs a Ford SB is you need a really good pin for the cam timing gear .
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It needs to be a GOOD quality bolt, torqued correctly. Most of the good cams already have a larger (7/16) bolt requirement.
The dowel does not keep the gear from moving, clamp force does. |
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Bret Velde 2003 I/SA |
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Suggesting the guy that bought someone elses car is legal, and not checking it seems risky to me. The lack of a rear firewall would be one of the items I would take another look at on your car. Sean |
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I hope that after you get it apart that you can find enough parts to get it back together in a timely fashion.
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This thread got so far off track. I really just wanted to know if my carb was legal. It has the correct Venturi size and throttle blade size, just not the correct 64 casting number. Otherwise, it’s identical to the ‘64 carb specs. And as I quoted from the rule book, it’s a little vague, unlike other sections that specify. Thanks everyone.
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