MSD ?'s
 

i have an msd 7 on my race car with a chevy dist.
i have several ?'s
1. does it matter what the point gap is? closer would be better it seems. but how much?
2. do you need to use a condenser in the dist.?
3. i have heard that the rotors with the E on the blade are better because they are shorter [that the older style, which were longer] and therefore cause a bigger/better spark at the plug. thoughts?
any thing else to add?

thanks rod

Re: MSD ?'s
 

Rod, where in the heck did you get a points dist.? Though you can use it to operate an Ignition box it wouldn't be my first choice. Go get any electronic dist. and use it instead, remember why they got away from points? The mechanical switching of a points dist. is not as reliable as the electronic switching . As for having more GAP at the rotor tip in my opinion your weakening the spark to the plug as you're using more energy to jump the gap to the dist. lug. After the spark is produced it starts to lose it's energy immediately, so the harder you make it's travel path the less end energy you have. Joe

Re: MSD ?'s
 

Do they even *make* points anymore? Please, what ever you do, put an electronic distributor in it! I'm just sayin. Jim

Re: MSD ?'s
 

I had been running a points dist on my 6AL box thru this past season but am swapping out to a real distributor. I set the point gap to .022" and also don't use the condenser. I would suggest using the heavier spring Accel point set 110129 as well. Hope this helps.

Re: MSD ?'s
 

If you use the heavier-spring points, remember the rubbing block will wear faster. As others said, get a good electronic distributor, MSD or whatever. Also, the longer rotor tip is better except for radio suppression.

Re: MSD ?'s
 

I agree, find a plug and play distributor. For the expense of a wasted race chasing electrical problems, you could pay for a new MSD or similar distributor.

Re: MSD ?'s
 

Awh Come on guys, He needs a dual points setup with a switch connecting the 2 sets so that he can retard the timing in high gear. Man I sure do miss the good old days.

Seriously if you aren't ready to spend $ on a distributor, keep using the points, they will work just fine for years.

Re: MSD ?'s
 

If your distributor is in good shape the Mallory Unilite conversion kit works great.Just make sure you get the surge protector to go along with it.

Re: MSD ?'s
 

over the week-end, i did the following.
1. i phased the rotor, by sloting the vac. adv. mount, so i could advance the breaker plate. this allowed me to put the rotor exactly in line with the terminal. at both early and late mech. adv.*
2. i set the point gap at .012". i feel this will give the lowest 'movable' side acceleration speed and still give a good signal to the MSD.
3. i drilled several holes in the side of the dist. body [aluminuuuuuum] similar to the holes in the old cast iron bodies. i don't think enough oil gets into the bodies at high rpm, especially when i use the lifter cover. also i drilled a very small hole from the oil pressure groove to actually add oil pessure to the lower bush.

i still need to get an expert opinion on the 'E' rotor. there was a reason GM did that. i'm no electrician, so.....same for using/not using a condenser inside the chevy dist.

*i suppose that i could have bought an MSD rotor which has a movable tip, but i hot rodded it instead.
i have a sun dist. machine, which i really enjoy using. i can work with the weights and springs and get the adv. curve just where i want it. cool.

thanks rod the help and advice