Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights
Gents, how are all of you who shut the engine down at the traps keeping the powerglide alive?? Roller bearings? Run high fluid level?? Other tricks?? Pretty sure some of the recent glide issues I have been having are from this... Anybody run an oil pressure accumulator so that you dont have to kill the engine in the lights to keep oil pressure whilst braking hard??
Any and all input welcome. Kevin |
Re: Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights
what about shifting to neutral and let the engine idle
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Re: Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights
Problem is I still loose engine oil pressure when I do that... Even with the trap door in the steff's pan and 5 quarts of oil. 6 quarts is Ok though...
Perhaps I need to restrict more oil from going 'upstairs'.... Or maybe running 6 quarts isnt really any power loss than running 5... Never did a back to back, but enough guys on here are running only 4 quarts, I figured there is something there.... |
Re: Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights
Shifting a powerglide into neutral in the lights can be very dangerous. It's very easy for it to slip into reverse if shift linkage isn't adjusted just right, and that will make car control very difficult. I was racing a guy in Gainsville several years (1985 bracket finals) ago and he lost control. Crashed in front of me then came across the track behind me and hit the other guardrail. They took him to Shands Hospital in a hellicopter as he really messed his ankle up bad..
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Re: Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights
pushing the shifter into neutral in the lights with any trans other than one having a clean neutral is very dangerous and countless racers have lost their car and ended up in the hospital because of it.
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Re: Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights
Clean neutral is the only way to go unless you want to run a lot of oil. Besides the oil pressure issue, I don't want me engine gearing down from 8500 or more RPM. I push mine in neutral and click it off in the lights. Clean neutral is the next position forward of high gear, no problem with putting it in Park. Park & normal Neutral is at the back.
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Re: Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights
Unless you have aluminum rods leave it in hi gear.as far as the accumulator, it takes longer to lose oil pressure and longer to get it back too! I took mine off after one season. :)
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Re: Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights
Guys, its a forward pattern powerglide, so there is no "clean neutral' valve body, nor a need for one... Yes I understand the implications of accidentally hitting reverse at trap speed. I have a very good reverse lockout shifter, which requires a second lever be pushed to engage reverse, I use nylon locknuts on my cable linkage, and I dont 'slam' it into nuetral, I lightly slide it forward.... All that is OK.
What I am wondering and asking about is how the guys who click it off in the traps are keeping the glide from damaging itself, when the engine stops and thus the front pump stops, so there is no forced trans fluid/oil flow through the assemblies at 8200 + RPM... Bill, I had heard the same thing about the accumulator, but I thought it through, and you could arrange a check valve and orifice setup, such that when the engine starts the full line flow back to the accumulator is blocked by a check valve, but passes through a small orificed bypass line, so it charges very slowly and it wont cause a delay in building engine oil pressure. Now when you shut the engine down and the accumulator flow reverses back to the engine, it does so quickly through the full line size through the now open check valve.... |
Re: Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights
Quote:
Lots of monkey see monkey do for no good reason! |
Re: Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights
Many people who run an accumulator run it through a ball valve in the hose. Close the ball valve before you shut the engine off. Open it when you crank the engine, and you have a pre oiler every time you start it. Mount a cable such as you'd use for a mechanical choke and connect it to the ball valve, and you can do it from the driver's seat.
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