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SmBlkFord 12-08-2013 12:12 PM

Starting problem
 
How to do use go about checking amps drawn at the starter ? My relay clicks away sometimes , running 1 12volt and alternator , charging between rounds , last thing I try before using another battery .

Tom Goldman 12-08-2013 12:32 PM

Re: Starting problem
 
Current draw would only be an issue if the starter was actually engaging and trying to turn the engine over .
The starter relay only clicking can be the result of several issues , the most common one I see is voltage drop across battery or starter cable connections , especially ground cables .
Start with fully charging your battery and having it load tested to confirm it is up to par .
Check for voltage drop at various points of both positive and negative sides , starting at the battery posts any working toward the starter .
You should test both at rest and while cranking .
Cable ends that have not been properly crimped and soldered are the worst culprits . Clamped or compression type lugs should be replaced with crimp and solder connections .

SmBlkFord 12-08-2013 09:21 PM

Re: Starting problem
 
All connections are new crimped and soldered , what would be an average drop in voltage when cranking at the starter ? Thanks

Mark Ugrich 12-08-2013 10:11 PM

Re: Starting problem
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by SmBlkFord (Post 411765)
All connections are new crimped and soldered , what would be an average drop in voltage when cranking at the starter ? Thanks

Usually .1 volt or less on positive cable and .2 volt or less on negative side would be considered acceptable.None of course would be better. Bad Ignition switch or wiring connections can cause a start relay to click also.

SmBlkFord 12-08-2013 11:53 PM

Re: Starting problem
 
Both cylinder heads are grounded to the frame , I was told to ground them back to the battery ? Would 2 batteries solve the problem ? This car has just recently been re wired , but will check again . thanks

Mark Ugrich 12-09-2013 12:33 AM

Re: Starting problem
 
If both heads are grounded to the frame, and the battery negative is grounded to the frame, you should be O.K. Two batteries are not required.

Run to Rund 12-09-2013 09:21 AM

Re: Starting problem
 
Make sure the starter mounting to the block is clean and free of paint. That is the ground for the starter itself!

Bob Shaw 12-09-2013 10:43 AM

Re: Starting problem
 
Have you tried bypassing the neutral start switch?

buzzinhalfdozen 12-09-2013 11:00 AM

Re: Starting problem
 
All good replies, have you checked voltage at the "S" terminal of the relay? Should have B+ there. As mentioned make sure the starter is grounded properly. BTW what is the battery voltage reading during your issue? Personally I've found voltage drop to be the cause with a slow crank, not normally for a no crank but it's worth checking. I like to have a ground from 1 starter bolt to the frame, just to be sure. Good luck. Joe

Tom Goldman 12-09-2013 03:06 PM

Re: Starting problem
 
1 Attachment(s)
Like Joe said ,check voltage at the S terminal for drop.
Also dont rule out the starter relay itself.
I've had a hot start problem ,and the volt drop across the solenoid was 3 volts when it got hot ! .
I cut it open to see what the problem and was shocked by how cheap it was .
This was an Echlin, but it was made in China.
I now use a AMETEK /Prestolite metal case solenoid with silver contacts.
The p/n is 15-108 , it can sustain 200 amps continuous ,and 600 amps intermittent.
the photo shows what most Chinese relays look like inside , pretty poorly built for our applications.


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