Clutch ID
 

Clutch ID
Going to try to post a pic...
Does anyone recognize this clutch?
it's going in front of a Doug Nash 5 speed crash box, behind a small block in a 65 Vette,not positive which release bearing to use..

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...oqSEUAlK&ifg=1

Re: Clutch ID
 

Looks like a Hays Mark XII, that's the paint has been removed. They stated the extra bolts would keep it from flexing. Was a few pounds heavier, looks like they did not use all the bolts. Probably use a flywheel for a regular six bolt pattern

Re: Clutch ID
 

Yep I think its a Hays Mark XII Long style pressure plate-- you will need a throwout bearing for a FORD if I remember right ---make sure the face of the bearing lines up with the levers on the clutch--- there are several different styles of bearings not everyone will work correctly---set the air gap fairly close as the disc will expand as it heats up--- Been a long time since I ran one of those but .028-.030 comes to mind --- if your flywheel has bolt holes for 12 bolts use them all it will prevent warping of the ring on the pressure plate--- set your clutch pedal fairly high so a slight depressing will allow the clutch to dis engage---- you don't need to go all the way to the floor with the pedal----if you want to shift from a forward gear to reverse gear push the clutch pedal down and pull the shift lever into reverse you will feel it pop into gear--- if you buzz the trans and it does not go directly into gear you might have to pull the trans and clean the burrs off the synchro rings --- if you booger up the synchro rings it WILL NOT go into gear at high RPM Shifts--- essentially you will miss the gear----use HEIM joints to fasten the shifter arms to the plate shifter arms on the trans--- great working trans we had 4 of them and after figuring out all the idiosyncrasies about them they worked flawlessly--also go get a extra set of snap rings for the trans you will need them----FED 387

Re: Clutch ID
 

That is an old hays unit. That thing will tear up everything you have. They are about 3000 lbs base pressure. I used to run one back on the late 70’s with a Doug Nash 5 speed. Broke everything I put behind it. Do yourself a favor and get a good clutch. I even took half of the sprins out of mine and it was still to strong

Re: Clutch ID
 

there are 2 different bearings a "tall" and a "short" version--- I think its the tall bearing --also make sure you reinforce the clutch fork with a gusset and use a home made rod from the Z bar to the fork with heim joints left and right thread on the either end and a bolt that holds the ends to the Z bar and the fork--- don't use the stock stuff it will flex and bend and its sloppy too--FED 387

Re: Clutch ID
 

Not sure if it's legal for the racing you intend to do, but you could easily soften the hit of that clutch with a ClutchTamer.

Re: Clutch ID
 

It looks like six of the springs are adjustable on pressure, using a Allen wrench , flip it over and see if it has a aluminum drive plate with a steel insert, or a cast iron drive plate. And a Aluminum flywheel, with a steel insert, would take some energy away from the hit. Could be a good piece, also depends what type of clutch disc composition you are going to use. And it appears to be for high rpm shIfting since there is no counter weight

Re: Clutch ID
 

Save yourself a lot of heart ache and do it right the first time, Take the guess work out of it, call Rob at Advance Clutch. You'll be glad that you did!!!


https://www.advancedclutch.com/

Re: Clutch ID
 

It's a long style hays thick cover fingers from the large circle appear to for the large Ford throw out bearing for the 13/8 input shaft

Re: Clutch ID
 

Its actually called a Borg&Beck/Long hybrid. The Long fingers are installed in a Borg & Beck cover, and I believe rather than use the Longs counterweighted fingers, they used the Borg & Becks roller counterweight inside the cover. I never ran one, but I understand the Long style forged levers have a faster ratio than the B&B versions stamped steel levers.