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67ss · 09-30-2009, 06:39 AM

The no hops move the instant center back and down which hits the tire harder on the intial launch initiating body separation which is a good thing on these big heavy chevelles up to a point. Taking them out will take hit out. At 7.20's you are nearing the point where the no hops are hitting the tire too hard but with a small block I don't think you are there yet. I ran them down to 7.1's with my 396 BBC with good results.

And when you say homemade lowers are they mounted in the stock mounting points? Rear of lower bar isn't lowered or anything?

Detail is what you need here. This is likely a whole combo issue not just a no hop bar issue.

What trans, rear gear and converter?

Battery in trunk?

What are your current 60' times? I don't like the moroso springs in the rear. I know what they are designed to do and why Dick Miller goes that route as well but without a good double adjustable shock they are not going to work. I would stick a stock type spring back there. Problem with those moroso springs is they will allow for good initial hit but they are so weak they allow the rear axle to rebound and unload the tire.

I don't like the comp three way shocks. A good shock for you front and rear would be Koni SPA1's set on full loose up front and some where around 1 turn or so from full loose on the rear. If car hooks on initial launch then unloads tighten rear shocks up. If car spins on initial hit loosen rear shocks. Fronts will likely just stay on full loose at all times.

How much front end travel do you have with car at rest until front tire just begins to lift off ground? Need at least 6" of travel. Otherwise you are hitting the bump stop before the car can get going and transfer weight to rear tires. This can be accomplished with upper bump stop adjustments and with a different front spring to get the front of the car lower. Get that stock front spring out of there. The front is a good place for a moroso spring or scale the car and call Santhuff for a pair of their front springs. You need a tall light rate front spring to store energy in the srping to help with weight transfer. If the spring lowers car a touch too much call Savitske Classic and Custom in penn. and get a pair of their spring seat spacers in the correct thickness to adjust. Their web address is www.scandc.com. You can talk to them too about the Howe low friction upper ball joints that come with longer studs to raise the upper control arm for better geometry as well as an increase in front travel. Another good option up front is a set of low friction bushings such as global west del-a-lum.

You can look out back all you want but if the front of the car isn't set up correctly you will never get it too work.

Also...what kind of tires are you running?

09-30-2009, 06:39 AM	#3
67ss Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 29 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: chevelle suspension questions The no hops move the instant center back and down which hits the tire harder on the intial launch initiating body separation which is a good thing on these big heavy chevelles up to a point. Taking them out will take hit out. At 7.20's you are nearing the point where the no hops are hitting the tire too hard but with a small block I don't think you are there yet. I ran them down to 7.1's with my 396 BBC with good results. And when you say homemade lowers are they mounted in the stock mounting points? Rear of lower bar isn't lowered or anything? Detail is what you need here. This is likely a whole combo issue not just a no hop bar issue. What trans, rear gear and converter? Battery in trunk? What are your current 60' times? I don't like the moroso springs in the rear. I know what they are designed to do and why Dick Miller goes that route as well but without a good double adjustable shock they are not going to work. I would stick a stock type spring back there. Problem with those moroso springs is they will allow for good initial hit but they are so weak they allow the rear axle to rebound and unload the tire. I don't like the comp three way shocks. A good shock for you front and rear would be Koni SPA1's set on full loose up front and some where around 1 turn or so from full loose on the rear. If car hooks on initial launch then unloads tighten rear shocks up. If car spins on initial hit loosen rear shocks. Fronts will likely just stay on full loose at all times. How much front end travel do you have with car at rest until front tire just begins to lift off ground? Need at least 6" of travel. Otherwise you are hitting the bump stop before the car can get going and transfer weight to rear tires. This can be accomplished with upper bump stop adjustments and with a different front spring to get the front of the car lower. Get that stock front spring out of there. The front is a good place for a moroso spring or scale the car and call Santhuff for a pair of their front springs. You need a tall light rate front spring to store energy in the srping to help with weight transfer. If the spring lowers car a touch too much call Savitske Classic and Custom in penn. and get a pair of their spring seat spacers in the correct thickness to adjust. Their web address is www.scandc.com. You can talk to them too about the Howe low friction upper ball joints that come with longer studs to raise the upper control arm for better geometry as well as an increase in front travel. Another good option up front is a set of low friction bushings such as global west del-a-lum. You can look out back all you want but if the front of the car isn't set up correctly you will never get it too work. Also...what kind of tires are you running? __________________ Chad Harris 67 Chevelle SS http://mysite.verizon.net/harrisracing Last edited by 67ss; 09-30-2009 at 06:47 AM.