Re: Mixing bearings for clearance
Buy your self a good bolt stretch gauge and use it religiously, forget using a torque wrench on rod bolts. And use it when you check the big end of the round for straightness and roundness. You are doing that, aren't you? Use the bolt stretch gauge when you check the ID of the bearing in the rod, too.
The old rule of thumb "0.001" of clearance for every 1" of journal diameter" will do you just fine until you figure out the real needs of the engine. It holds true in most engines, especially when the rod journals are between 2.0" and 2.3", and when the main journals are between 2.3" and 2.75". This is if you are using any good race oil between 5W/20 and 15W/40. If you run 20W/50 (why?) go a little looser, if you run 0W/10, tighten it up some.
A properly plumbed accumulator will not cause a problem, an improperly plumbed accumulator will blow your engine.
I like coated bearings, I have mine done at HM Elliott. We could do our own, but considering the time and operation involved, we don't. Honestly, they sell me the bearings already coated cheaper than I can buy them and coat them myself, if I consider time, materials, and equipment. They now do the coating for Mahle Clevite. They coat my skirts, if I don't have it done when I buy the pistons.
Avoid the rest of the trick stuff. If it won't live at all without cryo and DLC, it won't live anyway. Yes, you can do that stuff later and maybe find some gains. But right now, you need something that runs and lives. Follow the number 1 rule of engineering, because it applies to racing just as well: KISS. Keep It Simple, Stupid. A wise old racer named Tom Polk once told me "Tricks are for kids, you pour 'em in a bowl, pour milk on 'em, and eat 'em". Some of the best advice I've ever gotten in well over 30 years of this stuff.
You need good solid machine work, and good solid basic parts. All of the other silly stuff will do nothing but cause you problems, at least until you have 3-4 good solid engines you've done that run well and last. After that, then you go fooling with the rest of it.
By the way, you've already met a real good guy to help you through all of this, Bill Grubbs. Talk to him, listen to him, and pay attention. He knows a lot more than he lets on, and he'll show you the ropes. He's no engine builder, and he'll tell you that. But he knows who IS an engine builder, and where to get good advice and information.
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Alan Roehrich
212A G/S
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