$2850 +/- New Jerico with Long Shifter
$650 +/- New Bellhousing
$2100 +/- New Single Sportsman 10" or McLeod Soft Lock (clutch / PP / Flywheel) or $2900 for a Dual 7" Sportsman
Compare to new Pro-Trans or similar, PPP or similar shifter, one, if not two or three convertors.
I just went out first time in 7 years with a new Dual 7" Sportsman assembly. Followed manufacturers instructions, have nearly .500" throwout bearing clearance (one of the most neglected instructions and #1 cause of burnt clutches if not properly set) and .050" air gap. Manufacturer told me the counter-weight to use and initial base pressure. After 1st pass adjusted the base pressure from 670#'s down to 580#'s. I made all passes at 5800 RPM launch RPM.
No, I don't yet have a data logger. But I'd be willing to bet the clutch tune is within 15% to 20% of perfection and as it is now, good enough for 85% of the stick racers. And realistically, if I make two more base pressure adjustments, I'll know where the point of not enough base pressure is and you just ad a little more and your good. It takes less than 15 minutes to adjust the base pressure. A data logger will get the base and counter weights perfect.
I bought the Dual 7" as it's not only faster than the Sportsman single 10" but what I really saw as a major benefit was a larger tuning window. Which means less work.
And for some reason this shifts far easier than it ever did. I suspect it is two things. 1) the lighter & smaller clutch assembly and 2) I really had to much driveshaft angle that has now been corrected. Now it's that "hot knife through butter" shift where before I was really muscling it even with low base pressures. Whatever it is, I like it.
That's the cost comparison and setup. You can't compare something like this to something you had 5 years ago, much less back in the '90's or 80's.
Consistency - auto trans is a giant heat sink that affects the block and fluid temps more so than a manual trans. Once the clutch is properly tuned, you shouldn't have to work on it all weekend. You can adjust your lights with tighter or larger air gaps but be careful that after around .065" you are hitting the clutch and tires so hard that traction is affected. It's best to alter start RPM along with tire pressures; just like an auto car. Of course drive skill comes to play also. I see no reason why anybody shouldn't be able to hit a shift point. But then again, I can't understand why anybody would need an air bottle to make their shifts with an auto trans.
And fun? Nothing like shifting into second 3-4 feet in the air! I'm not sure I really want that Calvert wheelie bar I just ordered.
No, I'm not professing to be an expert. I just know what needs to be done. The lights I had showed me I was way out of practice
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