Re: Ladder bar tuning / adjusting
[QUOTE=cmracing;532611]I understand where you're coming from.
First of all, I used their bars for a long time, they are beefy for sure! And they told me they would never use a heim joint in the front, and I see why. It takes a ton of runs, but they eventually start to bend.....
I have been running Art Morrison ladder bars on my 3100 lb bracket car for 30 years now, along with the basic Morrison coil spring kit. When I bought the ladder bars, we installed them per Morrisons instructions, with the lower bar level, and parallel to the rocker panel. When I bought the ladder bar kit, the bars came with 6 3/4" solid rod ends, and no lower adjusters. After a while, I elected to replace the front solid rod ends with good quality Aurora chrome moly Heim ends, I just did not like the idea of not being able to tighten the front ladder bar bolts, which would cause binding. With the spherical rod end, you can tighten the bolt up, and still have the ball free to pivot. I have never found any bending or play in the front rod ends, although I have replaced them a couple of times for peace of mind. There is a big difference between a good quality $75.00 a piece joint, and a no name $12. piece. I also had lower bar adjusters installed about 20 years ago, so I could try moving the front ladder bar pivot location. Going lower made the back of the car rise more, going to the top of 3 holes didn`t really make a noticeable change, so I went back to the middle position, and have not touched it in many years. The car has always hooked well, and went straight, so I am leaving well enough alone. 3100 pound back half car with 105 1/2" wheelbase, 56% on the front tires, 32" long ladder bars, with a mild 428 FE Ford and 4 speed Jerico, best 60 foot of 1.29, 9.97ET@132 MPH.
__________________
NHRA 6390 STK
M/S 85 Mustang
|