[Cglrcng]

I have also just started collecting the necessary parts and pcs., and making a plan to convert the P.B. system to manual (improve the overall braking by adding the Mopar SLH II or SLH III Brake Upgrades), and that along with the complete Converter change or loosening (up to the point of as loose as possible, without affecting the overall efficiency of the converter, and a refresh of the transaxle are all in order in November which will allow a switch back (or re-step up, to allowing the cam in it now, to be used again in the near future once (and that 1 off custom ground Reed Cam's pc - Sadly John Reed formerly located in Georgia is no longer with the rest of us on the planet as he passed away after grinding cams for 35 years, in a tragic crash of his own private plane back in the late 90's), in the meantime can be measured cadded, copied, and a cam card made/ maybe even a new grind based off that also, without the extremes using newer and latest cam grinding techniques/options and technology not yet avail. back before the early 2000's), once all that is accomplished and in place (Testing will be necessary to see if theory matches reality, but a lot easier to test 60' leaves repeatedly vs full 1,320' runs).

I know what it is doing now after 90'-100' out. (Flat waking up instantly as it reaches peak torque numbers! - That 1st hundred feet though is nowhere near the same, and finding a happy medium between the 2 will be a final goal) Just moving those numbers back down to where they were before, will help to restore the bottom end and E.T./MPH.
If I can just get it to leave like that initially, then we are on to something! It just takes a little time, money, and perseverance, but mostly patience and the hard work, and track time to accomplish, that I cannot afford at the moment. (Grade points, seat time, practice at the tree and top end games experienced again, are the current goal, the rest is just frosting on the cake). And we will slowly creep up on the "just how far under it really is capable of" along the way.

An hour to line everything back up Monday on all the fresh install marks (Cam, crank/and Int. shaft sprockets, Oil Pump/Distro/Rotor and Converter Timing window marks w/ my preset TDC stop in the #1 cyl. spark plug hole finger tight on the Comp. stroke, and verify each again (hang cam sprocket from strut tower during the swapping without moving or disengaging the belt), and swap em' both out and in, with the same offset 3 degree adv. key, add another half hour to dial it in properly, even less time to button it up, reset the static initial base timing, & ck the advanced total again, and testing, the 1st 10 feet will tell me (what I need to know),and it will tell if theory matches my reality.