[Cglrcng]

I know you do Robin, and were the exact expert I was looking for actually. May I bounce a few ideas off of you, then ask you about the best solutions please?

At this point everything appears ready to go if we can solve the Ignition, cam/crank synchs issues (my engine currently has neither of the last 2 sensors in stock form), but I will post the pics of what we think may be able to serve as both. (My engine is not a Turbo Edition, and has a single plate 3 wire hall effect distributor currently installed), but I also purchased a 2.2L/135 CI Turbo distributor that has a double 3 wire Hall Effect P.U. plate. and the upper P.U. is off the upper 4 blade rotor, while the lower is offset more than 90 degrees and has a single blade nearly 180 degrees but can be pretty easily machined/trimmed as necessary to achieve a leading or trailing edge in whatever size is necessary. (I need to resize the pic's before posting, but will do so immediately after eating dinner).

I really appreciate you responding & asking Robin I know your knowledge with the Holley EFI systems is extensive. There are a few other questions also, about the O2 and IAC.

I certainly have very specific questions Robin.

My IAC is attached to the rear of the upright Bosch throttle body, bolted to but fully integrated into the T.B. (so, I must use that IAC), but it has only 2 wires Brn/Wht and Tan. (so far I have only run 2 wires (J1B (Pin B1 IAC Lo, and Pin B2 IAC HI) within the harness for the IAC, though I can rectify that if necessary if I need to switch it to wiring it by the PWM method, by switching the J1B cavity spots I am using, though it looks like the PWM method also calls for 4 wires, so I not sure of anything except I must use my stock IAC on my stock Throttle Body and it only has 2 wires (I can certainly back probe the connector and get voltage readings from it though to provide).

My original stock narrow band 02 Sensor is a 1 wire Bosch sensor and I am replacing it with a 2.9 Bosch (going a lil' cheaper as I am using Term. X, leaded race gas, and will need to carry spares and change them often possibly, though I am not fouling the single wire I understand the heated WB02 sensors are more prone to failing using leaded gas). Ok, the wire colors on the sensor are different (White, Red, Black, Yellow, and Blue I think, there are truly only 5 wires and a 6 cavity plug on the sensor with 1 of the cavities blocked off, (I also purchased the matching other 6 cavity female plug), I show and have attached the actual 8 wire WBO2 (7 wire plus shield cable to the harness all the way back to the J1A proper pinout cavities), diagram shows 8 wires (I have seen an 8 wire to 6 wire conversion extension I think it was on Summit, but is there an easier simpler way to wire it in properly? 5 on the WB02 sensor, 6 at the plug, to 8 Holley Term. X pinouts?

I do have a complete set of the 1984 Dodge Daytona Dealer Service Manuals and the as built complete wiring diagrams for the car if necessary and can forward pics of any subsection if needed for reference. If it makes it any easier to research the necessary solutions.

Other than that, I have deleted the knock sensors (I have zero provision on the block...unless you think I can and should add 1 somehow a lot like I am attempting to add the MAT that did not exist near the throttle body intake. And the MAP is internal in the Term. X of course. So I deleted the wires from the harness or just did not fill the cavities in the J1A Connector.

Thank you for responding again and offering your help Robin. (I will post pics soon tonight). Speed is not the most important element at this point as the car is currently 100 miles away from me right this minute.

Accuracy of the right/best solutions to attempt is, as I can easily make a trip back up to Vegas and finish terminating and installing the Main J1A/J1B engine harness as I am now down to the Ignition (I am not positive I can use my Chrysler/Mopar style Electronic Ignition Module and Coil, or if I need to switch to an MSD or not?)

The WBO2 and IAC, and connecting everything else as all the rest is terminated properly and tested as far as conductivity, resistance, and wire colors, pinout maps, grounds, etc.