[Bill Grubbs]

Enough of this. Everyone here aspired to race stock, no one held a gun to your heads, everyone knew what they were getting into, and chose a car based on that.

If you want to run roller lifters, roller rockers, dry sump oil systems; if you think your engine has to much factored horsepower; if your car has too long, or too short of a wheelbase; if you think your car carries too much, or too little weight; if your car doesn’t have a hood scoop and you think it should; if you car does not have traction control and you think it should; if your car needs wider tires to be consistent; if your car did not come with aluminum cylinder heads but the factory thought about them, or you think they should have put them on, or at least thought about putting them on; then I have some great money saving suggestions.

First, in light of today’s fuel prices then do not race. The car will be extremely consistent. Also, I can guarantee if the engine is never turned over your valve train/rods/block/oil pump/ will not, and can not break. Bearings won’t spin, distributor gears won’t tear up, and (I know I’ll take a hit from the engine builders on this next one) the freshen job on the engine can be put off from 100-400 runs to every 4-5 years. Ultimate reliability, consistency, and cost savings in on package, and you can talk about how fast and consistent you car is (or would have been).

Second, if you HAVE to race, then race a local bracket race. Just think how much fun it would be, and the cost savings; no accepted rod or piston list, any head, any trans manual or automatic, heck, you can run pump gas or bio-diesel if you wanted. Plus, you will save huge amounts on hotel/motel bills, tow vehicle fuel. You won’t even need a motorhome since most bracket races are one day events. The big advantage is there are very little rules (meaning if you want roller rockers your competitor won’t care, he may even sell you his old set to help you get started).

Third, continue racing stock, and save money where you can to get the car/engine/transmission you really want. We started racing in the "Street" class at Emerald Coast Dragway and save for three months to buy a no frills AutoMeter tach for the car, then much later a Play back tach. The car originally had a ten bolt, sloppy turbo 350, and a weak throughly thrashed slapped together (by the previous owner) SBC 350. It took us a long time and the help of a lot of friends and family to get where we are today (Bob and Bobby Lundholm, Jimmy Parker, Woodro, Arnold Greene, Paul Forte, Lee Tuttle, DJ Raiser, Tim Sloan, and many manufacturers...the list goes on). This group has been instumental in guiding our efforts and kept us from wasting money (well I am hard headed and did waste some money, but not as much as I would have). We started with a plan (worked from the back of the car forward), and have kept to it. It has taken ten years to reach where we are now. Friends and family what more can be said.

Everyone chose to build a car for different reasons, money, engine size, class factor, class size, uniqueness, and even the cool factor. But a Trabent will never fit into A, B, or C, much less F, G, or H, even with roller rockers, superchargers, or roll bar/cages, you will have to change cars. Racing costs money. The old adage is still true today, “How fast can I go? – How big is your wallet.” Rule changes cost everyone money even if it is as easy as removing the button from the steering wheel.

Stop the rule changes!