And then, since I do not have the car right here in front of me, and we are now ready for the beginning of phone calls, I looked at pics taken just a little over a week ago as I started the Holley Power Harness install, and started a pretty crude drawing of exactly how we installed that Mopar Ignition box back in the Spring of 1995 and exactly how all the related wiring is connected right now. I realized I could draw and relate all the existing connections (except exactly which wires, are connected to which of the 3 cavities in the existing 3 wire distributor connector- lower left in my crude diagram), as I will need to actually get back to the car and go to that connector and peel a small amount of silicone off the end of the connector and peel back the corrugated poly covering to see the 3 spliced wires and their colors and how they match up with the 3 White/Black/ and Orange wires in the harness going from the existing Distributor to the 5 pin Chrysler Electronic Ignition Module to add to my diagram. And that currently is missing info in my crude drawing posted below. (The Green/Wht trace wire powering the + side of the coil comes directly from the stock Alternator feed which actually has that Ballast Resistor built into/attached to the rear of the alternator instead of most older Mopar's having it on the firewall).
We picked up key on power to power the Ignition box from the Logic Module Diagnostic plug as it was conveniently right there a few inches away from coil and box and supplies battery power at all times as long as the key is on...(that Blue wire supplies 12V power to the Diagnostic Tool when it is plugged in for Code Reading/Clearing of the Logic Module/P.M., and repetitive testing of all EFI Functions like Injector, IAC, TPS, etc.), and the other plugged in connection there next to it is simply a toggle switch to ground (a controllable jumper), that when switched to on, when key is in on position...engine not running (usually gets a 3 second pump prime of the EFI fuel pump, then shuts off allows me to shut off engine, turn key back on at fuel ck...and allows me under hood to take fuel samples and have full control of fuel pump on/off functions. It simply turns the pump on/off (usually is in off position unless taking an under hood sample, in my case no longer needed, unless required, since my sample valve is in the rear of the car and no longer requires using the fuel pump...much safer), and it is a diagnostic test function of the fuel pump and full return fuel system loop, found in the service manual. (Draining the entire fuel system can also be accomplished under hood- disconnect the T.B. feed line, add a hose over the fender to a fuel jug, turn on key and flip the switch and the entire system contents will end up in the jug w/ complete control just inches away).
I am guessing a smarter man than I (more experienced with Mopar Ignition boxes), could easily figure out the missing info at that 3 wire distributor plug connection using the service manual data I also listed above. And If I had the 1983 Dodge Omni (Carb Edition), wiring diagrams, I would have no need to go look at the car to fill in the missing info. That install was done in 1995 and a much smarter man at electrical ignition connections than I performed the operation and it works (TY Bernie Cunningham), but it still allows very limited tuning options.
I am just attempting to relate what is it right now, so we can make fully informed decisions of what it needs to be for best future results. This old horse needs that fresh new much improved (Holley EFI), heart A.S.A.P. (but what else does it need as Ignition to jump start it best and allow it to take advantage best of all those new tuning functions, while also getting rid of all those designed in stock EFI limitations added to an overly smogged up & underpowered lower emissions 1980s street driving turtle?)