[Dave Casey]

Raced a 66 with a stick for years, it is all just ratios/geometry. The setup I used was, conventional bellhousing, a straight bellcrank, NOT a chevy II curved one, and a small plate that the pivot ball was bolted to that had a bolt that went into the factory pivot ball hole on a non chevy II block. Since you bent the rod from the pedal, I would start on the other end. First I would see if you can gain some at the clutch fork, get a longer one if that is possible to make things move easier. Then move to your lower arm of the bell crank, and make it a little shorter. These 2 moves or just one will take some tension off the upper end. All this must be done while making sure you still end up with enough throwout bearing range to operate the clutch.

I believe that the clucth fork will want to hit the floor on the end, an adjustable pivot ball in the bellhousing will help, also you may need to try different height throwout bearings

Chances are the clutch setup is fine, you just need to fix the geometry.