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"Ran out of room on my electrical panel" Ha! I should post a pic of mine...


I have an LC-2 as my A/F controller and it works pretty well.


Be sure to mount it where it is easy to access those Serial IN/OUT connectors. They fit together securely, which means they are hard to pull apart for connection to a laptop.



If your laptop does not have a connector for the serial cable IMS includes, pick up a Serial to USB adapter cable at Best Buy or someplace like that. It will take a few tries to train the software to see the cable if you are going through USB.


IMS has a little SD card recorder that connects to this system called a Pocket Logger. You need to stop the recording before shutting the car off or it will trash run data but the thing is under $100. They have a remote button so the logger can be mounted out of the way. I made one using an old transbrake button but don't recommend a DYI fix unless you're a better wirehead than myself.



I just finished adding one of their extended data devices - the SSI4 Plus. It adds RPM to the data log and can do driveshaft speed and stuff like that. Any 5 volt input except exhaust temp. Can't say how well it works yet (no engine). If I can see my RPM and AFR on the same chart I can get a better idea of what's going on.


Which gauge do you have? I have the IMS G3 series. It can do warnings and such. I think it's the only straight A/F ratio gauge IMS makes. All the rest have an A/F control function that kind of duplicates the LC2.


Keep that gauge where you can't miss it during a run. Mine was in a dash pod last year and I missed the warning and toasted my engine. Now it's secured to the side of my tach.


It's no Racepak, but then it's not $2500 either.