If I started a new stock class car

Robert Swartz · 11-11-2008, 10:09 PM

I'm doing the research for now. Just trying to get a handle on what it will cost me to build a stocker. This is all just prelim off the top of my head stuff. I realise this is just the start. The intention is to build an IHRA crate motor car. With a slant towards possibly turning this car into an NHRA legal car in the future. Anyway, here's my initial breakdown, how far off am I?

Cost of body: 500.00
Roll cage 150.00
Cal trac bars 339.00
Calvert rear shocks 178.00
Calvert frt shocks 98.00
Moser 12 bolt 1830.00
Split Mono leaf 298.00
Rear end gear 280.00
Wilwood frt brakes 600.00
Alum body mounts 43.00
Moroso frt sprgs 118.00
Fuel Cell 120.00
Elec Fuel Pump 133.00
This much so far = 4687.00

Now still need to factor in a complete front end rebuild with urethane bushings, good ball joints. Whatever the steel 2 x 3 costs to tie the subframes or spend $100-130 to buy commercial subframe connectors. Just guessing miscellaneous costs, we're at $5000.00 real easy and that's before I have any drivetrain, LOL! Still alot of pieces, wheels and tires, tach and gauges, shifter, safety belts, nuts, bolts, oxy/acet gas, welding wire, you name it. This just to start to build a stocker.

Robert Swartz

SSDiv6 · 11-11-2008, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robert Swartz

I'm doing the research for now. Just trying to get a handle on what it will cost me to build a stocker. This is all just prelim off the top of my head stuff. I realise this is just the start. The intention is to build an IHRA crate motor car. With a slant towards possibly turning this car into an NHRA legal car in the future. Anyway, here's my initial breakdown, how far off am I?

Cost of body: 500.00
Roll cage 150.00
Cal trac bars 339.00
Calvert rear shocks 178.00
Calvert frt shocks 98.00
Moser 12 bolt 1830.00
Split Mono leaf 298.00
Rear end gear 280.00
Wilwood frt brakes 600.00
Alum body mounts 43.00
Moroso frt sprgs 118.00
Fuel Cell 120.00
Elec Fuel Pump 133.00
This much so far = 4687.00

Now still need to factor in a complete front end rebuild with urethane bushings, good ball joints. Whatever the steel 2 x 3 costs to tie the subframes or spend $100-130 to buy commercial subframe connectors. Just guessing miscellaneous costs, we're at $5000.00 real easy and that's before I have any drivetrain, LOL! Still alot of pieces, wheels and tires, tach and gauges, shifter, safety belts, nuts, bolts, oxy/acet gas, welding wire, you name it. This just to start to build a stocker.

Robert Swartz

...by the time you are ready...you will be 16K~20K poorer and if you do not have one, add the cost of a tow vehicle, trailer and spares.

Bob Pagano · 11-11-2008, 10:26 PM

Go to racingjunk.com and look at the stockers, its cheaper to buy than build. Even very good cars on here and ebay. you will spend twice as much to build.

Dave Ribeiro · 11-11-2008, 10:54 PM

Robert,

Bob is exactly right, you can't build one as cheap as you can buy one all done and ready to run 7-8 under... I know there are always afew who can build one for under 10k and run a second under...But why waste time testing & tuning, wear & tear on a tow rig, when you can buy it today and race tomorrow... Trust me I have built a few, its better to buy it all built and you can practice driving.... Good Luck on what ever you do, you will Love stock type racing......

Terry Cain · 11-12-2008, 09:49 AM

Robert,
These guys are right. It's a WHOLE lot cheaper to buy than build. For a decent stocker you might as well figure 20-30 grand.
OH! never heard of Nineveh. Had to Google it. Your not too far away.

Tom Goldman · 11-12-2008, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Pagano

Go to racingjunk.com and look at the stockers, its cheaper to buy than build. Even very good cars on here and ebay. you will spend twice as much to build.

Bob hit it on the head . .....Unless you plan on building an "odd ball" that you've just gotta have, look at the used cars first. ......With this economy there are some real bargans out there. .....Tom

Rory McNeil · 11-12-2008, 02:05 PM

[Cost of body: 500.00

Since you mentioned Cal Tracs and a Moser 12 bolt, I have to assume that you are looking at either a Camaro or Nova . Around here $500.00 won`t be close enough to buy even the roughest Nova 2 door or Camaro you could imagine. If you want a V8 GM car, I would have to think that a 78-83 Malibu or a mid-late 70`s Firebird or LeMans would be the cheapest to build. For a Ford , a 5.0 Mustang or for a MoPar, a Aspen Volare are likely the most "affordable", but can still eat up a lot of cash depending on how fast or nice you want it. Buying a car already done makes the most sense, and don`t worry, even a "finished" Stocker can eat up time and $$$ plenty fast!

Robert Swartz · 11-12-2008, 04:59 PM

Yes it's a 79 Firebird, T/A at that, already know about the spoiler, non-functional hood scoop that probably won't flow any air, and the body flares. All present problems, regarding potential speed and ET. Admittedly, it will take some cleanup, paint and body work, it's a 30 year old car, I expect this.

So, I'm gonna play the part of a fish here and BITE. What makes these cars SO expensive to initially build??

I'm just trying to grasp the concept. I have built a couple cars in my lifetime, albeit that was a long time ago. I'm currently resurrecting my old bracket 66 Chevy II, that I parked 20 years ago. That has reschooled me a bit on what things cost today

I'm not asking for secrets, just someone explain to me, WHY, one cannot build one of these cars. This 20K+ number keeps rearing it's head. Or perhaps let me rephrase my question, is it just you can build a car BUT will it take this 20-30K to build a nationally competitive level car?

I'm a man of modest means. I can build something, given time. I just don't have 10-15-20-30K lying around, doing nothing that I can soak into a vehicle all at once. Educate me, in the end, perhaps I'm out of my league and truly CAN'T do this?

Lambertcars · 11-12-2008, 08:31 PM

I purchased a decent 91 firebird formula non t-top on raceing junk in early 2006 that was a running car with a lot of parts that i could use when building for ihra crate motor stock. The cost was $4500.00 plus it was 700 miles from me,that was another $500.00. I sold as many parts from the car that i didnt need and was still able to use the msd box,coil and dist. Also used the headers the 350 trans and shifter and the centerline wheels. I had about $12000.00 total to spend after that was spent and another $5000.00 for a total of $17000.00 and i dont even know how many hours that myself and my son have in constructing this car. I now have a competitive f crate motor car that runs .80-.90 under the index. If i had it to do over again i think that i would buy a car turn key and would not go through all that work.

Allen lambert

RULER · 11-13-2008, 06:22 AM

If 20k is a problem then you better do something else, A competitive engine will be 10k plus and a good trans is about 2k to 4k and thats just a start. A good running stocker for 20k would be on the cheap side unless you build some off the wall combo and they are normally hard to race,(Turbo car or something like that). Sounds like a go running bracket car should be in your future, or like so many have said buy one already done you will save money.

11-11-2008, 10:09 PM	#1
Robert Swartz Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Nineveh, Indiana Posts: 512 Likes: 0 Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts	If I started a new stock class car I'm doing the research for now. Just trying to get a handle on what it will cost me to build a stocker. This is all just prelim off the top of my head stuff. I realise this is just the start. The intention is to build an IHRA crate motor car. With a slant towards possibly turning this car into an NHRA legal car in the future. Anyway, here's my initial breakdown, how far off am I? Cost of body: 500.00 Roll cage 150.00 Cal trac bars 339.00 Calvert rear shocks 178.00 Calvert frt shocks 98.00 Moser 12 bolt 1830.00 Split Mono leaf 298.00 Rear end gear 280.00 Wilwood frt brakes 600.00 Alum body mounts 43.00 Moroso frt sprgs 118.00 Fuel Cell 120.00 Elec Fuel Pump 133.00 This much so far = 4687.00 Now still need to factor in a complete front end rebuild with urethane bushings, good ball joints. Whatever the steel 2 x 3 costs to tie the subframes or spend $100-130 to buy commercial subframe connectors. Just guessing miscellaneous costs, we're at $5000.00 real easy and that's before I have any drivetrain, LOL! Still alot of pieces, wheels and tires, tach and gauges, shifter, safety belts, nuts, bolts, oxy/acet gas, welding wire, you name it. This just to start to build a stocker. Robert Swartz __________________ Robert Swartz - Swartz & Lane 66 Chevy II Pro 95 Achieva EF/SA, 78 Mustang II U/SA (work in progress) #354 stock

11-11-2008, 10:26 PM	#3
Bob Pagano VIP Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: New Holland, PA Mooresville,NC Posts: 1,163 Likes: 240 Liked 16 Times in 11 Posts	Re: If I started a new stock class car Go to racingjunk.com and look at the stockers, its cheaper to buy than build. Even very good cars on here and ebay. you will spend twice as much to build. __________________ Bob Pagano A/SA

11-11-2008, 10:54 PM	#4
Dave Ribeiro VIP Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Williamsburg, Va.---USA Posts: 1,827 Likes: 1,612 Liked 56 Times in 27 Posts	Re: If I started a new stock class car Robert, Bob is exactly right, you can't build one as cheap as you can buy one all done and ready to run 7-8 under... I know there are always afew who can build one for under 10k and run a second under...But why waste time testing & tuning, wear & tear on a tow rig, when you can buy it today and race tomorrow... Trust me I have built a few, its better to buy it all built and you can practice driving.... Good Luck on what ever you do, you will Love stock type racing...... __________________ Dave Ribeiro 1033 STK

11-12-2008, 09:49 AM	#5
Terry Cain Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Georgetown, Indiana (close to Louisville, KY) Posts: 776 Likes: 530 Liked 230 Times in 106 Posts	Re: If I started a new stock class car Robert, These guys are right. It's a WHOLE lot cheaper to buy than build. For a decent stocker you might as well figure 20-30 grand. OH! never heard of Nineveh. Had to Google it. Your not too far away. __________________ Terry Cain ???? STK tcain19689585@gmail.com

11-12-2008, 02:05 PM	#7
Rory McNeil VIP Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: from Vancouver BC Canada, now in Nova Scotia Posts: 1,311 Likes: 317 Liked 1,103 Times in 301 Posts	Re: If I started a new stock class car [Cost of body: 500.00 Since you mentioned Cal Tracs and a Moser 12 bolt, I have to assume that you are looking at either a Camaro or Nova . Around here $500.00 won`t be close enough to buy even the roughest Nova 2 door or Camaro you could imagine. If you want a V8 GM car, I would have to think that a 78-83 Malibu or a mid-late 70`s Firebird or LeMans would be the cheapest to build. For a Ford , a 5.0 Mustang or for a MoPar, a Aspen Volare are likely the most "affordable", but can still eat up a lot of cash depending on how fast or nice you want it. Buying a car already done makes the most sense, and don`t worry, even a "finished" Stocker can eat up time and $$$ plenty fast! __________________ NHRA 6390 STK M/S 85 Mustang

11-12-2008, 04:59 PM	#8
Robert Swartz Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Nineveh, Indiana Posts: 512 Likes: 0 Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Re: If I started a new stock class car Yes it's a 79 Firebird, T/A at that, already know about the spoiler, non-functional hood scoop that probably won't flow any air, and the body flares. All present problems, regarding potential speed and ET. Admittedly, it will take some cleanup, paint and body work, it's a 30 year old car, I expect this. So, I'm gonna play the part of a fish here and BITE. What makes these cars SO expensive to initially build?? I'm just trying to grasp the concept. I have built a couple cars in my lifetime, albeit that was a long time ago. I'm currently resurrecting my old bracket 66 Chevy II, that I parked 20 years ago. That has reschooled me a bit on what things cost today I'm not asking for secrets, just someone explain to me, WHY, one cannot build one of these cars. This 20K+ number keeps rearing it's head. Or perhaps let me rephrase my question, is it just you can build a car BUT will it take this 20-30K to build a nationally competitive level car? I'm a man of modest means. I can build something, given time. I just don't have 10-15-20-30K lying around, doing nothing that I can soak into a vehicle all at once. Educate me, in the end, perhaps I'm out of my league and truly CAN'T do this? __________________ Robert Swartz - Swartz & Lane 66 Chevy II Pro 95 Achieva EF/SA, 78 Mustang II U/SA (work in progress) #354 stock

11-12-2008, 08:31 PM	#9
Lambertcars Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Johns Island SC Posts: 114 Likes: 0 Liked 1 Time in 1 Post	Re: If I started a new stock class car I purchased a decent 91 firebird formula non t-top on raceing junk in early 2006 that was a running car with a lot of parts that i could use when building for ihra crate motor stock. The cost was $4500.00 plus it was 700 miles from me,that was another $500.00. I sold as many parts from the car that i didnt need and was still able to use the msd box,coil and dist. Also used the headers the 350 trans and shifter and the centerline wheels. I had about $12000.00 total to spend after that was spent and another $5000.00 for a total of $17000.00 and i dont even know how many hours that myself and my son have in constructing this car. I now have a competitive f crate motor car that runs .80-.90 under the index. If i had it to do over again i think that i would buy a car turn key and would not go through all that work. Allen lambert

11-13-2008, 06:22 AM	#10
RULER Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 221 Likes: 15 Liked 58 Times in 18 Posts	Re: If I started a new stock class car If 20k is a problem then you better do something else, A competitive engine will be 10k plus and a good trans is about 2k to 4k and thats just a start. A good running stocker for 20k would be on the cheap side unless you build some off the wall combo and they are normally hard to race,(Turbo car or something like that). Sounds like a go running bracket car should be in your future, or like so many have said buy one already done you will save money.