2 Unrelated questions but need some help

[Bobby Fazio]

I re-did the front suspension on my car and went back to stock springs and some nice new roller perches and rollerized lower control arms and QA1 double adjustable shocks. However, as the car sits now there is only about 1.5-2 inches of shock down travel and I'm worried about it bottoming out coming down from a wheelstand. I have the extension turned to the loose position and compression turned up pretty stiff to try and keep it from bottoming out on the way down. Does anyone run this small of a shock down travel?

Question 2: I have a set of two piece Monocoque lightweight rims I just got used but they won't seal in the seam where the 2 piece come together. Can someone recommend a good sealer?

[rayfin]

I'm a real amateur but what about rubber bumper stops and silicone to seal the wheels? Just a thought.

I had rubber stops on a 67 camaro and it would come down like it was on a pillow.

[Jeff Lee]

Originally Posted by SStock1373

I re-did the front suspension on my car and went back to stock springs and some nice new roller perches and rollerized lower control arms and QA1 double adjustable shocks. However, as the car sits now there is only about 1.5-2 inches of shock down travel and I'm worried about it bottoming out coming down from a wheelstand. I have the extension turned to the loose position and compression turned up pretty stiff to try and keep it from bottoming out on the way down. Does anyone run this small of a shock down travel?

Question 2: I have a set of two piece Monocoque lightweight rims I just got used but they won't seal in the seam where the 2 piece come together. Can someone recommend a good sealer?

Food for thought on the first question, coming down "hard" from a wheelstand can be indicative of having "too much clutch". This will cause a big wheelstand and as the engine grunts against the forces of the clutch it runs out of steam and down she goes...hard. You can hear it in the exhaust as this is played out if you don't have any sort of data system in place.
A clutch which is lighter on the pressures will allow the engine to accelerate quicker and longer without running into that wall. The result will be wheel stands that aren't as abrupt at the start and will carry the front end farther with a softer landing. Small engine Stockers are successfully using the Sportsman dual 7" and I feel confident it would work for you also.
Back to the question you posed, I agree with rayfin below. Ad bumpers for the same reason the factory did. You may want to consult your shock manufacturer or go to another source for progressive bumpers for your shocks (I believe Koni started with these first and others like AFCO now implement them).
This all assumes you have the right p/n shock for your mustang and you haven't altered the geometry. 1.5" does sound tight.
Call Rich Bogart on what he recommends for sealant as Bogart made the Monocoque wheel.
Bogart Racing Wheels
315 S 57th Dr · Phoenix
(602) 353-6648

[Dwight Southerland]

Go to building supply store and look for silver colored silicon in a caulking tube that says it is for sealing aluminum windows. Be sure the area you want to seal is very clean - use laquer thinner, brake parts cleaner, etc.; the surfaces should be sqeaky clean. Apply the silicon sparingly and forced into the gap between the wheel halves. Too much silicon will add to the mass of the material and can be forced out by the inertial forces of the wheel spinning at high rpm.

That's the procedure I have always found to work.

[Greg Hill]

Put some snubbers on the front so when it lands it the snubbers absorb the impact. Also you might try tightening up your front shocks on the rebound side.

[Bobby Fazio]

Ok are you talking about a stop on the lower control arm or on the actual shock? I have stops on the shocks. I got new lower arms that do not have the rubber stops. I am currently not using travel limiters but would they be beneficial in this situation?

[Bobby Fazio]

Originally Posted by Dwight Southerland

Go to building supply store and look for silver colored silicon in a caulking tube that says it is for sealing aluminum windows. Be sure the area you want to seal is very clean - use laquer thinner, brake parts cleaner, etc.; the surfaces should be sqeaky clean. Apply the silicon sparingly and forced into the gap between the wheel halves. Too much silicon will add to the mass of the material and can be forced out by the inertial forces of the wheel spinning at high rpm.

That's the procedure I have always found to work.

This is what I did and looks to be sealed good so as soon as I get the tires mounted we shall see. Thanks!