94-95 Mustang stocker

[smracer2002]

I am taking my wifes car off the street and will start
bracket racing it.I figure I might as well spend money
once and do the suspension right until its time to go
class racing.Car has been 12.60s as it sits with all
stock suspension and lowering springs.
Would anyone care to give me a clue or suggestions on suspension
setup and parts to do this right the first time?
If you dont want to post I would gladly accept a private message.

[smracer2002]

Thank you sir for moving to the correct section.

[RPM5595]

Make the front end loose. NO bind. Control it with adjustable struts and drag springs. Moroso works good. Aftermarket low drag brakes front and rear. Racing type factory replacement rear control arms,springs, shocks, sway bar. Light weight wheels and tires. Radial slicks if an automatic. Pretty much everything. Have fun!

[mopar jeff]

Don't waste your money on the Morosos, unless you want to cut them. They will not fit in that car, and it's not worth your life trying. Take it from someone that has tried. I ended up with a Moog spring that Phil Mandella at PMR Racecars recommended. I think it had a 1400lb rating. Hope that helps, and if you went 12.60 already, it's not anywhere near "Stock" legal.

[RPM5595]

Yes, you will have to cut the Moroso springs more than likely. So what? If that is too much work then he might as well give up on building a Stocker right now. They work real well and don't cost a small fortune to buy.

[smracer2002]

No, it isnt near legal for class but I figure I can bracket
race it and get the suspension sorted.

It is a mild street engine,but I imagine there is .5 to .8
left in the suspension as it sits.I should be able to run
the 12.00 heads up index classes as we work on the
"legal" engine.

[Ken Miele]

smracer2002,

A first name would help, it would the make the conversation a little more friendly, but I do understand if you wish to stay anonymous.

Jay is correct, and the morose springs will have to be cut, not a big deal at all. If you don't want to go that route, a set 4 cylinder fox body springs works great, front and rear. Just make sure you have a swaybar for the rear, very import to help stop the twisting. Good adjustable drag struts and shocks are also a plus.

My experience is the SN95 cars are very forgiving, having run one in super stock with mostly stock suspension components. I ran 11.00's with a trans brake and a small tire, and never had any issues.

[Jeff Lee]

Cutting springs COMPLETELY alters the spring rate making them STIFFER, not something that is desirable in a Stocker.
As with everything, do it right or keep it parked.
I agree with the rest of the posts. Work on getting the car to perfection, then ad a legal drive train.

[smracer2002]

My name is Chris,Ken and everyone else.

I have a rear sway bar a guy in Carolina built.
I also have one on my Granada wagon bracket car.
Believe it or not it is 1.625 diameter.It was built to see
if it would work instead of a body mounted bar.
It bolts in the original stock mounting location and works better
than I figured it would.

Eibach and UPR both offer a drag spring set that lots on NMRA
guys use and they seem to work well.The UPRs are built by Eibach
according to UPR.

Already have 15x4s and 15x10s with a 6.5 bs with 10x26s on it.
I know it will be a 9x28 or 9x30 when its time.

Does anyone here use the airbag in the right rear spring?

[larry dowty]

chris i have a 95 stocker also and i use a air bag in the right rear.