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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Nashua,Iowa
Posts: 136
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Hi all, I have a customers 1957 283 SBC in my shop and would really like to replace the rope seal with a newer style seal. All I have found is a seal sold by Danchuck or using a seal from a 250 L6 and inserting a .090" wire behind it. Seems hokey to me but was wondering what some of you have done? It's not a race engine but it still deserves better than a rope seal! Thanks!
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Jay Roeder facebook.com/racefuelsales Former N/SA , Soon to be SS/AS, Renegade Race Fuel dealer |
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#2 |
Veteran Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Murfreesboro TN
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That solution works very well. I build those engines for guys who restore Corvettes, and we have used several of those. There is another version sold by a guy with a business called Maxx Parts. I have installed one of those in a recent build. It only has break in time, so all I can say is that it went in well, wasn't too expensive ($40) and has not leaked yet.
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Alan Roehrich 212A G/S |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 663
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Could you describe the 6-cyl. seal/wire method a little more? A friend...doing up a '56
wanted to know..... |
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#4 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Texarkana Ark/TX
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I have used the right thickness Plastic tiewrap/ziptie instead of the wire. Takes a little trimming and fitting. The tiewrap/ziptie also works well when I align bore/hone a 400 block and remove seal lip material. Think of it as just filler material to get the seal to crush properly. You can get it crushed too much and it will leak.
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Adger Smith (Former SS) |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Somerset,Ky
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Have you checked w/ Egge Machine in CA.?
Mike Taylor 3601 |
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#6 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 20
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what I use at work is a 1964 153 L 4 clind seal , cut the end stubs off works for 265 to .
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