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Old 11-30-2013, 09:06 AM   #1
426Fred
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Default Hardtop or Post Car

Which 1964 Plymouth body style would be better for stock eliminator, a hardtop or a post car and why? Thank you for any information you could share. I am finishing up a post car but I also have a hardtop I was thinking of converting to a stock eliminator car as well.
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Old 11-30-2013, 10:17 AM   #2
Bob Pagano
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Default Re: Hardtop or Post Car

Fred, I always favored the post cars, I think they twist less than a hardtop.
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Old 11-30-2013, 04:17 PM   #3
426Fred
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Default Re: Hardtop or Post Car

Thank you Bob for you answer.

I have a 64 Plymouth Savoy post car in poor shape body wise and I have a 64 Plymouth Belvedere hardtop in very good shape body wise and was wondering if it would be worth the extra cost to repair the rust and do the body work on the post car. The hardtop just needs some minor dings fixed and a repaint.
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:29 PM   #4
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Default Re: Hardtop or Post Car

Depending on what type of rollbar or cage you're going to put in
would probably offset the stength advantage of the post car.
Isn't John Shaul's car a hardtop? I can't remember

I would use the better body as it will be stronger than a body that gets
cut apart and has panels replaced.
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:37 PM   #5
Mark Yacavone
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Default Re: Hardtop or Post Car

I don't know about the Mopars, but the Chevy II hardtop roof is an inch lower.
I'm not sure it makes any difference though..There are some very fast post cars out there.
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Old 12-01-2013, 08:39 AM   #6
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Default Re: Hardtop or Post Car

I raced several 64 Plymouths in the 60s to 70s with Max Wedge
power. I believe the posts were slightly lighter which help
when you could not adjust to class bottoms.

With the cars tied and caged which I recommend I have seen
no difference in stiffness or longevity. The Hardtop does look a little
more Aero.

When the car were not routinely tied and caged.......I did have
flex problems behind Door sill area of Quarters. The sheetmetal
deflected significantly in that area and truck seams seperated.
I could Jack up the car and not be able to get the door open

Last edited by GTX JOHN; 12-02-2013 at 04:40 AM.
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Old 12-01-2013, 02:41 PM   #7
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Default Re: Hardtop or Post Car

Quote:
Originally Posted by GTX JOHN View Post
I raced several 64 Plymouths in the 60s to 70s with Max Wedge
power. I believe the posts were slightly lighter which help
when you could not adjust to class bottoms.

With the cars tied and caged which I recommend I have seen
no difference in stiffness or longevity. The Hardtop does look a little
more Aero.

When the car were not routinely tied and caged.......I did have
flex problems behind Door sill area of Quarters. The sheetmetal
deflected significantly in that area and truck seems seperated.
I could Jack up the car and not be able to get the door open
John we had that problem (the rears wheels trying to catch up with the fronts) With our Challenger convertible. We solved it by putting a bar inside the sill and welding it in 5 places. We were not allowed anything going forward in the roll bar and frame connectors were a no-no.. So we couldn't tie it together any other way. We also used thick wall seamless tubing to help with our weight problems.
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Old 12-01-2013, 06:34 PM   #8
Dyno
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Default Re: Hardtop or Post Car

Post cars looks like race cars, hardtops look like show cars.
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Old 12-01-2013, 08:42 PM   #9
Tom Meyer
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Default Re: Hardtop or Post Car

On the HT chevy IIs there are renforcements in the roof to keep the doors closing right making it weight more, check your shipping weights between the two cars and see what your breaks are for your class that you want to run.
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Old 12-02-2013, 01:56 PM   #10
Joe Schaechter
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Default Re: Hardtop or Post Car

Here is a good picture comparison of the two Chevy II models. Our post Chevy II doors didn't close right when the car was jacked up until we went with a cage and a sill plate bar (2nd pic) for additional support.



sill post view
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