|
![]() |
#1 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Elverson, Pa
Posts: 158
Likes: 125
Liked 41 Times in 4 Posts
|
![]()
Has anyone done the 1" Upper A-Arm drop modification (Shelby Drop) on their 64-70 Mustangs? While primarily a road racing thing, there are supposed to be some benefits in lessening the positive camber gain on the launch and wheelstand. I have spoken to a few guys and they seem to be split on whether there is a benefit to doing it.. I am trying to keep the wheels straighter on launch, as now the tops of the tires lean in. How did this modification effect your alignment?
Any thoughts?
__________________
Time Wasters....http://www.flickr.com/photos/joe_grippo/sets/ http://www.youtube.com/user/JoeGrippo?feature=mhum Last edited by Joe Grippo; 01-20-2017 at 09:48 AM. Reason: fat fingered |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 615
Likes: 311
Liked 685 Times in 196 Posts
|
![]()
I am planning to do it on my Shelby stocker.
I don't think it would hurt anything. http://opentrackerracing.com/technical/ |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 | |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Greentown, IN
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
![]()
When Joe Spinelli was restoring the Super Stock Maverick I had a chance to see the body. It had that mod done to it. This mod is to drop it 1 inch and move it back 5/8". There is a diagram in the old Ford Boss 302 chassis book. Another Ford trick is to heat the steering arm on the spindle bend the arm down right at spindle about a inch the heat the portion that tie rod attaches to and bend that mounting hole back up about a inch the helps bump steer. It's a lot of work but it's worth it.
Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 | |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sugarloaf,PA
Posts: 201
Likes: 19
Liked 109 Times in 18 Posts
|
![]() Quote:
Give my dad a call. He can give you information on this. 570-788-4482 (Home) 570-956-8665 (Cell) |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: east hartford ct.
Posts: 539
Likes: 0
Liked 9 Times in 3 Posts
|
![]()
I would think drilling holes and changing mounting points may be a no-no. I know tall ball joints and off set shafts are used. but I would check with your div. tech director about changing the mount location?
__________________
Mark Markow 171 ss/tb |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Elverson, Pa
Posts: 158
Likes: 125
Liked 41 Times in 4 Posts
|
![]()
Thanks for the replies.
Ryan, I will definitely call your Dad about this...Probably early next week. Mark, I should have mentioned this is a bracket car. Joe
__________________
Time Wasters....http://www.flickr.com/photos/joe_grippo/sets/ http://www.youtube.com/user/JoeGrippo?feature=mhum |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 311
Likes: 2
Liked 9 Times in 8 Posts
|
![]()
If you have no travel limiters moving the upper down one inch will do wonders but the real trick as mentioned above, is to move the upper control arm back. Doing so will add more positive caster and allow the car to "track" better going down the track. when you get it right you can put it on the bumper, land and continue on without ever "fighting" the steering wheel
see my build below in the build section...wait I don't have those pics up yet was supposed to be top secret..lol ![]()
__________________
__________________ Bill Diehl B200 C/D STK |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|