Subframe

[tolaas]

My front subframe are a little wrecked at left side,so my Camaro 67 are lower on that side, about 20mm on the rear.
If i bye a new one, AMD or OER, are they worth the money or are they badder then that one i alredy have?
Thank`s

[Henrys Toy]

Originally Posted by tolaas

My front subframe are a little wrecked at left side,so my Camaro 67 are lower on that side, about 20mm on the rear.
If i bye a new one, AMD or OER, are they worth the money or are they badder then that one i alredy have?
Thank`s

Good morning to all,
You might want to take a micrometer to the steel on that front sub frame (H frame) the 1967 Camaro had the lightest H frame. As I recall they .015 to .020 thinner and that made a nice difference. So if you're going to replace that frame just be aware of that difference in weight. Now if it was replaced once before you owned the car there may be no difference. You might want to bring that frame to a good welder/ body man and have it corrected as long as its the lighter 1967 H frame.
Have a good day.

Respectfully,
Henry Kunz 1534 H/SA

[tolaas]

Thank you for your interesting answer, i think it`s a 67 frame.
I`ll take care of this frame, do you have a 67 Camaro mr. Kunz?
Torbjorn Laas Sweden

[Dwight Southerland]

There were two different subframes in production 1967 Camaros and Firebirds. A light one was used in cars with 6-cylinder engines and 327 engines. All others used a thicker frame for the additional weight and stress. The light ones did not have holes stamped on the inside the front of the frame horns, the heavier ones did. Production efficiency and volume production economy dictated changing to using only one frame around June, 1967. That was the story I was told by a Chevrolet engineer around 1979. Actual weight difference I found was 12 pounds between two frames I compared.

The light frames did not have holes drilled and tapped for front sway bar.

[Henrys Toy]

Originally Posted by tolaas

Thank you for your interesting answer, i think it`s a 67 frame.
I`ll take care of this frame, do you have a 67 Camaro mr. Kunz?
Torbjorn Laas Sweden

Good morning to all,
I do not have a 1967 Camaro, but I do race a 1969 Nova. A friend that still races his 1969 Z/28 told me about this when I was building my Nova in the early 1980's. Casey, you know who you are! So I hunted down one of those H frames and its still in the car today. Also if the H frame is suspected to be "bent" you might want to check the frame mounting points on your car body in case the car was involved in a frontal impact and things got moved. I hope this helps and good luck with your project.

Respectfully,
Henry Kunz 1534 H/SA

[tolaas]

My car was comming to sweden in the early 80 as a racecar, Some comtetition class what i heard and then they build a stocker.
It`s 1967 camaro 350 ss car from the begining so maybe i have the thicher frame. Thanks for your answers
Torbjorn

[tolaas]

I forgot, if i look at a blueprint the car are 7-8 mm smaller between the upper control arm brackets and 20 mm lower in the rear wheel house so what i can understand so have the car been smashed sometimes.

[Henrys Toy]

Originally Posted by tolaas

I forgot, if i look at a blueprint the car are 7-8 mm smaller between the upper control arm brackets and 20 mm lower in the rear wheel house so what i can understand so have the car been smashed sometimes.

Good morning Torbjorn and to all,
This can get to be a lengthy answer, but the short answer is locate someone in your area that has a frame puller at a body shop and see if they have reference points to measure from to guide you. In todays world with "throw away cars" that's becoming a lost art.
Now if the car is stripped to the shell, I would try to locate a relatively level area on the shop floor and with jack stands support the body squarely.
Use a plumb line from the H frame attachment points and make "X" marks on the ground in those spots. Then measure straight down. Note your measurements, remember these cars were all built on an assembly line and there is a reasonable amount of error. I wouldn't be surprised to see at least an 1/8" or .125 or about 3mm difference in any spot.
If you find a level spot and support the shell and it doesn't rest on one jack stand - measure that distance. You might have to shim up that spot.
Don't worry about the radiator support chassis mounts you can shim them
for what ever amount distance you might need. If you find a distance like I'm describing then I would suspect the H frame will be bent in that location roughly the same amount.
Chances are good the car can be "twisted" some and still be usable, but the straighter the better. This where a good body man and/or frame puller will get you in the ball park. Just remember a ruler, bubble level and a framing square will never lie to you .If its bent or crooked you'll know.
Mr. Southerland reminded me of the frame holes that were missing in the 1967 frame I installed At the time I tired to replicate the holes and locations so it all looked correct. When you're young and have lots of spare time you can accomplish quite a lot. Thank you Dwight for reminding me of those details
So get out into the shop and roll up your sleeves and get to work!
have a good holiday season and have fun.

Respectfully,
Henry Kunz 1534 H/SA

[tolaas]

Thank`s

[CMcAllister]

Unfortunately, some of these old race cars have been built using salvage yard donors. And they were in the yard for a reason.

I've seen a few, not necessarily S/SS cars, that were twisted bad, and not really redeemable.