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#1 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Indianapolis,IN
Posts: 24
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Currently have a stock aluminum replacement and a stock replacement radiator. Just got a moroso water pump drive. I did have a 18" jegs Nylon fan on the pulley but I drive my car to the track and it doesn't keep my car cool enough while driving to the track. So we ended up getting a dual fan for the radiator and taking the 18" Nylon fan off. We also did poke out the center of the thermostat. I was looking at maybe replacing the water pump for some more possible flow unless you guys have any other suggestions. It's a 340 Small block.
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Jason Whisman |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 691
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The time the water spends in the radiator will determine how well the car cools. I would not have removed the thermostat center. I have an 1/8" hole drilled off to the side to prevent air pockets after refilling the engine after a complete drain.
So -- if you speed up the water pump and the t-stat does not maintain the correct flow rate, your engine may run hotter. |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Lynden ,WA
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Do you have the six blade or eight blade water pump? The eight blade is for A/C equipped cars and cools better.
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2009 V/SA Record Holder |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Indianapolis,IN
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6 blade currently. I was thinking of picking up the mopar 8 blade water pump. But i am not holding my breathe, i think i just need a bigger radiator.
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Jason Whisman |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Parker, CO.
Posts: 727
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As cad & Phillip said, no matter how big a radiator you install, if
the water does not stay in it long enough to cool down it does no good. But that said, a good aluminum radiator, the 8 blade A/C water pump and a disc to slow down the water would all be a good direction to go, also a fan shroud on the radiator.
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Phil Saran Parker, Colorado |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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The first question I ask folks that call me is "how does it do on the road at speed". If it does good at speed, but poorly at idle it is a fan/shroud combination problem. The "hold it in the radiator longer" theory problem is that you also "hold it in the engine longer". You cool it more in the radiator, but guess what happens to the water backed up in the engine.
If your racing you need a decent radiator, electric water pump, and electric fan with a shroud (custom tailor made prefered) that covers the entire radiator core. That is how you maximize your cars cooling potential, and eliminate aggravation. The key is to do a better job of heat transfer (convection) using a nice shroud/electric fan combination. Then you can run the water thru faster and everything will be happy. I normally see 30-50 degree reduction at idle. Round-robin cool down 40 degrees less than 3 minutes. Here is what I'm using in my Corvette project. Wade Mahaffey |
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#7 |
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Northern New Jersey suburbs
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I also think the old theory about the water is going thru the radiator too fast to cool the engine is false.....here is a link to a company that is well known.....read the questions and answers...
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/Stewart_faq.htm
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Rich Biebel S/C 1479 Stock 147R |
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