Stocker block SBC

[Chad E532]

I am starting at the bottom and working up a plan for the block and ran across a few questions.
In the rule book it states that the engine must be "same year" as car used. Is this to say you have to run a 1975 casting in a 1975 car? And do the tech guys really check casting dates?
Is it better to run an aftermarket (approved) Dart or World Products block?
My intentions were to take an old 4 bolt main block I have here and put 8 sleeves in it have it align-bored, and squared/decked. I was tossing around the idea of bronze lifter guides as well, are the worth the effort/cost as long as I am having the remainder of the block machined?
The block I have is not the "same year" as car used and now that I am looking at these aftermarket blocks I am wondering if the additional weight in the casting is worth it to have a more rigid block.

Thanks in advance.

Chad

[Chad Rhodes]

Originally Posted by Chad E532

I am starting at the bottom and working up a plan for the block and ran across a few questions.
In the rule book it states that the engine must be "same year" as car used. Is this to say you have to run a 1975 casting in a 1975 car? And do the tech guys really check casting dates?
Is it better to run an aftermarket (approved) Dart or World Products block?
My intentions were to take an old 4 bolt main block I have here and put 8 sleeves in it have it align-bored, and squared/decked. I was tossing around the idea of bronze lifter guides as well, are the worth the effort/cost as long as I am having the remainder of the block machined?
The block I have is not the "same year" as car used and now that I am looking at these aftermarket blocks I am wondering if the additional weight in the casting is worth it to have a more rigid block.

Thanks in advance.

Chad

if you are gonna spend that kind of money, get the dart

[Alan Roehrich]

Yep, save yourself time and money, go Dart, and don't look back. By the time you do what you want to a 30 year old block that wasn't great to begin with, you can buy a near finished Dart that will last years. And the Dart will make HP. Find a Dart dealer and get them to order it for you like you want it.

[Geerhead55]

Originally Posted by Alan Roehrich

Yep, save yourself time and money, go Dart, and don't look back. By the time you do what you want to a 30 year old block that wasn't great to begin with, you can buy a near finished Dart that will last years. And the Dart will make HP. Find a Dart dealer and get them to order it for you like you want it.

Alan,,,assuming there are no stupid questions,,I'm going to fire this one off.
When it comes to Dart blocks for a small block Chevy, I know there is the SHP block
and the "Lil M" block. Are either of these blocks acceptable for Stock by NHRA, or is there another Dart block that is approved that I'm unaware of? I've also heard the SHP block takes a different, longer lifter as compared to the others, correct?
Thanks for your input as always.
Danny Durham

[Jeff Lee]

To answer the basic question, yes...you can run any year block as long as it's the same family. The original size of the block (262, 265, 283, 327, 350) is of no concern to tech. Just bore / stroke and technically lifter bore diameter and deck height (which is primarily dictated by the NHRA spec stroke, rod length and compression height and deck clearance).
That is why you see 454 blocks sleeved down to a 396 bore. It's all good.
And while I have never raced a class car with an aftermarket block, I would if one were available. There are MANY advantages as mentioned below. The cost is negligible compared to what you get.

[Alan Roehrich]

Originally Posted by Geerhead55

Alan,,,assuming there are no stupid questions,,I'm going to fire this one off.
When it comes to Dart blocks for a small block Chevy, I know there is the SHP block
and the "Lil M" block. Are either of these blocks acceptable for Stock by NHRA, or is there another Dart block that is approved that I'm unaware of? I've also heard the SHP block takes a different, longer lifter as compared to the others, correct?
Thanks for your input as always.
Danny Durham

Danny, the Little M Sportsman block and the 31161111 SHP are the two accepted Dart blocks.

Some Dart blocks do require a taller lifter if you are using roller lifters, as the lifter bosses are taller. The SHP block is listed as having the necessary dimensions and bosses to use OEM roller lifters and camshafts.

I've used and sold both. The biggest thing is knowing how to hone them. You also often have to kiss both the lifter bores and the main bores to suit your needs.

[carl hinkson]

Originally Posted by Chad E532

I am starting at the bottom and working up a plan for the block and ran across a few questions.
In the rule book it states that the engine must be "same year" as car used. Is this to say you have to run a 1975 casting in a 1975 car? And do the tech guys really check casting dates?
Is it better to run an aftermarket (approved) Dart or World Products block?
My intentions were to take an old 4 bolt main block I have here and put 8 sleeves in it have it align-bored, and squared/decked. I was tossing around the idea of bronze lifter guides as well, are the worth the effort/cost as long as I am having the remainder of the block machined?
The block I have is not the "same year" as car used and now that I am looking at these aftermarket blocks I am wondering if the additional weight in the casting is worth it to have a more rigid block.

Thanks in advance.

Chad

Chad

Don't spen al the at money on a old block, Putting 8 sleeves in that block will put a lot of unwanted stress in that casting,

Go with the SHP block and just about all roller lifters now are tall and will work the older blocks and the newer ones with the taller lifter bores.

We machine alot of Dart blocks and are a dealer for Dart products and as Alan metioned they do need some work and we like to have the lifters to be used in hand and fit them if needed.

The Dart block is light years ahead of any OEM block when it comes to cylinder locations, lifter bore locations, and cam tunnel placement and deck heights ETC.

Good luck which ever way you go!!!!

[Adger Smith]

I don't think a 1975 Chevy "Stocker" engine uses rollers. He Must use a stock size (Diameter) hyd style lifter.

[Greg Reimer 7376]

Originally Posted by Alan Roehrich

Danny, the Little M Sportsman block and the 31161111 SHP are the two accepted Dart blocks.

Some Dart blocks do require a taller lifter if you are using roller lifters, as the lifter bosses are taller. The SHP block is listed as having the necessary dimensions and bosses to use OEM roller lifters and camshafts.

I've used and sold both. The biggest thing is knowing how to hone them. You also often have to kiss both the lifter bores and the main bores to suit your needs.

I gotta question. Will the 31161111SHP blocks legal with a 327?While a 327 and a 350 share bore sizes and almost everything else,the 327's were all 2 bolt main.Also, do these come with bushed lifter bores? The crank I use is the large journal steel forging. I have a few of these, so that's not a problem. Just thought I'd ask.

[John Leichtamer Jr]

Did NHRA change the rules about using a 4-bolt main sleeved block down to 305????

Hammer