Dually Brakes?........

Wade_Owens · 10-16-2008, 10:35 AM

I've tried 2 different sets of brakes this year, neither seem to work very good. Anybody have any good tips on stopping power? I have a 95 Chevy 3500 dually and a 40' trailer. BTW, the trailer brakes work very good, just need more up front.....

Thanks for all the help...

Wade O

Crisco · 10-16-2008, 10:57 AM

Wade, the best ones I found were the top of line Carquest brand for the front. But, the brakes on those trucks aren't the best anyways. My truck had 190,000 miles on it when I sold it and I think I put 4(?) sets on the front (trueing up the rotors each time) and one set on the rear. I pulled a 28' Pace most of the time .

SSDiv6 · 10-16-2008, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wade_Owens

I've tried 2 different sets of brakes this year, neither seem to work very good. Anybody have any good tips on stopping power? I have a 95 Chevy 3500 dually and a 40' trailer. BTW, the trailer brakes work very good, just need more up front.....

Thanks for all the help...

Wade O

Do you have the base C3500 or C3500 HD version? The brakes are different between for both trucks. Also, do you have drums in the rear or discs all around?

tell me the details and I may be able to make recommendations.

Crisco · 10-16-2008, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSDiv6

Do you have the base C3500 or C3500 HD version? The brakes are different between for both trucks. Also, do you have drums in the rear or discs all around?

tell me the details and I may be able to make recommendations.

A 95 is disc/drum. I didn't think there was a HD version in 1995? Mine was a 2000....same style as Wades.

SSTRACER323 · 10-16-2008, 11:28 AM

I had a 96 GMC C3500 it is the Hydro boost. They are junk. I changed mine out 3 times and still no stopping power. The Carquest brakes are very good.
I know what you are going through on stopping, I sold my dually and i have a 2003 Chevy 2500HD and it stop's a 1000% better than the dually.
Better gas mileage too.

Rob Petrie E395 · 10-16-2008, 11:30 AM

I run the titanium metalic by wagner on the front of my 98 K3500. I pull a 44' haulmark, I weight right at 24,000 total wieght and it has great stopping power. I work on a ton of these trucks as it seems every farmer around here has one. The one thing I have found is that after these trucks get around 100K on them the hydroboosters do not make as much pressure as they did originally often times creating less than expected braking capibility that is usually only noticable with a loaded trailer. If you are having trouble stopping start checking pressures and I think you will find a rebuilt booster will dramaticly improve braking when pulling a heavy trailer. I put about half dozen a year on and owners are always amazed how much better the truck stops afterwards. By the way if you do end up needing one the ones from O'riellys are the best value they are just as good as the ones from Napa and half the price usually around 150 my cost for a rebuilt unit. And as always make sure rear drum brakes are adjusted up you would not believe the number of trucks I see with stuck adjusters
Hope this helps
Rob

Just happend to call for some other stuff they went up 180 exchange now

Crisco · 10-16-2008, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob Petrie E395

I run the titanium metalic by wagner on the front of my 98 K3500. I pull a 44' haulmark, I weight right at 24,000 total wieght and it has great stopping power. I work on a ton of these trucks as it seems every farmer around here has one. The one thing I have found is that after these trucks get around 100K on them the hydroboosters do not make as much pressure as they did originally often times creating less than expected braking capibility that is usually only noticable with a loaded trailer. If you are having trouble stopping start checking pressures and I think you will find a rebuilt booster will dramaticly improve braking when pulling a heavy trailer. I put about half dozen a year on and owners are always amazed how much better the truck stops afterwards. By the way if you do end up needing one the ones from O'riellys are the best value they are just as good as the ones from Napa and half the price usually around 150 my cost for a rebuilt unit. And as always make sure rear drum brakes are adjusted up you would not believe the number of trucks I see with stuck adjusters
Hope this helps
Rob

Wish I would have known that a long time ago about the booster.... Rob, do you see alot of warped rotors on these trucks?

Rob Petrie E395 · 10-16-2008, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crisco

Wish I would have known that a long time ago about the booster.... Rob, do you see alot of warped rotors on these trucks?

No on 2wd at least nothing that cant be machined out, yes on 4wd and almost always are so bad they need replaced to fix properly, I think it is because of the way they made the 4X4 setup not a good design in my opinion. bad part is on the 4wd you have to pull the whole hub/rotor assy and press it apart to change rotors its not a quick job by any means. The most common thing I see on these trucks both 3/4 and 1 tons is very few people check rear brake adjusters to make sure they are functioning properly and keeping the brakes adjusted. Second is bad boosters. As far as front end shimmy goes I have yet to see one of these trucks with over 50K that did not need a idler arm and pitman arm they are junk from the factory. Best solution that cures the problem is the moog problem solver parts a little bit higer than the standard stuff but they last. I put them on my truck at 45K now have close to 130K on it and they are still tight. Now if you want to really see a problem find a truck with warped rotors and loose idler/pitman arms hook a big load to the back and try and stop, it will almost jerk the wheel out of your hands. I have tried the Tow Truck valve. works a bit better for when you are towing a trailer But if you drive on snow or bad roads like we have around here in the winter time it can be a handfull because it seems to want to lock up the rears and try and make the truck swap ends. ( I took it back off mine for fear if I let someone else drive the truck it would get wrecked.

Wade_Owens · 10-16-2008, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSDiv6

Do you have the base C3500 or C3500 HD version? The brakes are different between for both trucks. Also, do you have drums in the rear or discs all around?

tell me the details and I may be able to make recommendations.

Mine has discs on the front and drums on the rear. It does not have HD anywhere on the truck. Its too old to get the options list from GM, I already tried......

Wade

SSDiv6 · 10-16-2008, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wade_Owens

Mine has discs on the front and drums on the rear. It does not have HD anywhere on the truck. Its too old to get the options list from GM, I already tried......

Wade

Wade,

These are my recommendations:

Front Rotors:
NAPA P/N: 86593

Front Pads:
Satisfied Brakes Fleet P/N: FL459
or:
NAPA P/N: SD7339M

Rear Shoes:
Satisfied Brakes Fleet P/N: 452NR
or:
NAPA P/N: SD452R

Before you install them, find a place and have the rotors, pads and shoes cryogenically treated. It is worth every penny and the results are worth the cost.

10-16-2008, 10:35 AM	#1
Wade_Owens Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 578 Likes: 0 Liked 3 Times in 1 Post	Dually Brakes?........ I've tried 2 different sets of brakes this year, neither seem to work very good. Anybody have any good tips on stopping power? I have a 95 Chevy 3500 dually and a 40' trailer. BTW, the trailer brakes work very good, just need more up front..... Thanks for all the help... Wade O

10-16-2008, 10:57 AM	#2
Crisco Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Hendersonville, TN 37075 Posts: 226 Likes: 4 Liked 47 Times in 21 Posts	Re: Dually Brakes?........ Wade, the best ones I found were the top of line Carquest brand for the front. But, the brakes on those trucks aren't the best anyways. My truck had 190,000 miles on it when I sold it and I think I put 4(?) sets on the front (trueing up the rotors each time) and one set on the rear. I pulled a 28' Pace most of the time .

10-16-2008, 11:28 AM	#5
SSTRACER323 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Coal City, IL. Posts: 775 Likes: 3 Liked 1 Time in 1 Post	Re: Dually Brakes?........ I had a 96 GMC C3500 it is the Hydro boost. They are junk. I changed mine out 3 times and still no stopping power. The Carquest brakes are very good. I know what you are going through on stopping, I sold my dually and i have a 2003 Chevy 2500HD and it stop's a 1000% better than the dually. Better gas mileage too. __________________ The Doughboy Lee Lones S/ST 323L

10-16-2008, 11:30 AM	#6
Rob Petrie E395 VIP Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Woodlawn IL Posts: 1,092 Likes: 162 Liked 216 Times in 77 Posts	Re: Dually Brakes?........ I run the titanium metalic by wagner on the front of my 98 K3500. I pull a 44' haulmark, I weight right at 24,000 total wieght and it has great stopping power. I work on a ton of these trucks as it seems every farmer around here has one. The one thing I have found is that after these trucks get around 100K on them the hydroboosters do not make as much pressure as they did originally often times creating less than expected braking capibility that is usually only noticable with a loaded trailer. If you are having trouble stopping start checking pressures and I think you will find a rebuilt booster will dramaticly improve braking when pulling a heavy trailer. I put about half dozen a year on and owners are always amazed how much better the truck stops afterwards. By the way if you do end up needing one the ones from O'riellys are the best value they are just as good as the ones from Napa and half the price usually around 150 my cost for a rebuilt unit. And as always make sure rear drum brakes are adjusted up you would not believe the number of trucks I see with stuck adjusters Hope this helps Rob Just happend to call for some other stuff they went up 180 exchange now Last edited by Rob Petrie E395; 10-16-2008 at 11:37 AM. Reason: added to