1970 nova ??????'S

hamlinmotorsports · 10-29-2009, 09:30 PM

im in the process of building a 70 nova and wanted to see what everyone has to say about different combinations that is competitive and wont break the bank im looking to run it in G or H any feedback would be great thanks

Bobby Zlatkin · 10-30-2009, 12:47 AM

There is only one 1970 combination that will put you in G or H, a 300/350.
Claim it as a 1969 and add the 255/350 to that list.
However, to be competitive in either, you will have to break the bank unless you have a big bank.
Or, unless you buy one already built starting at approx. $17,000. More for a better one.

Alan Roehrich · 10-30-2009, 05:36 AM

Both of the small block combos you want to run for those classes have been hit hard, and they use cylinder heads that are hard to find in good shape. It is just as cheap to build a 396/402 car. There's no such thing as a competitive (relatively fast) Stock Eliminator car to run those classes that is not going to break the bank, unless you can do all of your own work, and get a good deal on parts.

Mike Taylor 3601 · 10-30-2009, 06:16 AM

Have to be careful 69 - 70 have diferent size tailights and side marker lights& front bumper.68\69 use
shorter taillights&side markers 70-72 use longer versions can't swap them back and forth without body
work. Mike Taylor3601

Todd Bailey · 10-30-2009, 09:49 AM

I'm in the same boat here. How much do the tech guys lean on you to have the correct lights/bumpers for the year you are claiming?

JRyan · 10-30-2009, 09:47 PM

Ed's right. There are a lot of cars running as a different year then what they actually are. We used to run a 72 and claimed it as a 69 with the 350hp 396. I'm also building a 70 now to run as a 71-72 with the 350 that Al just mentioned. As an automatic it's rated 278 and 274 as a stick which is what I'm currently building. We do all our own engine and bodywork and one of our best friends is an upholestry guy. So the car is fairly nice but, even with that I'll have far more into then I care to think.
So, Alan is pretty much correct about you can't build a super competitive G-H car without spending a boat load. Even if you can do most the work yourself. However, it also depends on what your definition of competitive is. If you're looking to run .6-.7 under and aren't all interested in having it be the nicest car in the country it can be done on a reasonable budget.
I can't say if you're looking to be somewhat budget conscious that I'd look into a 396/402. While the majority of the parts don't cost anymore (pistons,rods,etc). Some of the castings as well as having really good springs, rockers, lifters which require a little more attention. That's the reason I chose to build the new car with a small block. After running our 350HP I knew I couldn't afford to keep up in A-E/S on my own. If you're looking to go -1.-1.25 under you'll have to spend the money for the best stuff no matter what combination you'd choose to use.

Best of luck

Rick Ryan

Larry Fulton · 10-31-2009, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Todd Bailey

I'm in the same boat here. How much do the tech guys lean on you to have the correct lights/bumpers for the year you are claiming?

From what we've seen pass tech lately, Not Enough!

Larry Fulton

Green2x85 · 02-17-2013, 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobby Zlatkin

There is only one 1970 combination that will put you in G or H, a 300/350.
Claim it as a 1969 and add the 255/350 to that list.
However, to be competitive in either, you will have to break the bank unless you have a big bank.
Or, unless you buy one already built starting at approx. $17,000. More for a better one.

Just curious if your talking $17k for a motor or a decent car???

Ed Carpenter · 02-18-2013, 02:23 AM

Gary Waldo's stick car is for sale.

FLEMING · 02-18-2013, 10:01 AM

I was looking at making my nova into a stocker (pretty much already is other than motor).. I had 2 good engine guys qoute me a motor Both were $12,500 for a good piece... That I was told would have to be ran on kill to run .8 to .9 under in H/J/K That is a BAD place to be I have found out..

So I have came to the conclusion that I have to either get a different car/class combo or not race stock...

I have always wanted to race stock eliminator but I am not gonna spend 12 grand on a motor to do so, I race for fun but I want to be able to have some return on my investment.. so spending 3-4k on a bracket motor and I can more than pay for that in a year racing local..

Maybe someday if the powerball numbers hit..

10-29-2009, 09:30 PM	#1
hamlinmotorsports Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 22 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	1970 nova ??????'S im in the process of building a 70 nova and wanted to see what everyone has to say about different combinations that is competitive and wont break the bank im looking to run it in G or H any feedback would be great thanks

10-30-2009, 12:47 AM	#2
Bobby Zlatkin Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Mills River, NC Posts: 417 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: 1970 nova ??????'S There is only one 1970 combination that will put you in G or H, a 300/350. Claim it as a 1969 and add the 255/350 to that list. However, to be competitive in either, you will have to break the bank unless you have a big bank. Or, unless you buy one already built starting at approx. $17,000. More for a better one. __________________ Bobby & Norene Zlatkin L/SA

10-30-2009, 05:36 AM	#3
Alan Roehrich Veteran Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Murfreesboro TN Posts: 5,126 Likes: 1,583 Liked 1,888 Times in 423 Posts	Re: 1970 nova ??????'S Both of the small block combos you want to run for those classes have been hit hard, and they use cylinder heads that are hard to find in good shape. It is just as cheap to build a 396/402 car. There's no such thing as a competitive (relatively fast) Stock Eliminator car to run those classes that is not going to break the bank, unless you can do all of your own work, and get a good deal on parts. __________________ Alan Roehrich 212A G/S

10-30-2009, 06:16 AM	#4
Mike Taylor 3601 VIP Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Somerset,Ky Posts: 1,374 Likes: 358 Liked 308 Times in 103 Posts	Re: 1970 nova ??????'S Have to be careful 69 - 70 have diferent size tailights and side marker lights& front bumper.68\69 use shorter taillights&side markers 70-72 use longer versions can't swap them back and forth without body work. Mike Taylor3601

10-30-2009, 09:49 AM	#5
Todd Bailey Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Houston Posts: 312 Likes: 31 Liked 33 Times in 17 Posts	Re: 1970 nova ??????'S I'm in the same boat here. How much do the tech guys lean on you to have the correct lights/bumpers for the year you are claiming?

10-30-2009, 09:47 PM	#6
JRyan Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Aberdeen SD Posts: 645 Likes: 30 Liked 112 Times in 31 Posts	Re: 1970 nova ??????'S Ed's right. There are a lot of cars running as a different year then what they actually are. We used to run a 72 and claimed it as a 69 with the 350hp 396. I'm also building a 70 now to run as a 71-72 with the 350 that Al just mentioned. As an automatic it's rated 278 and 274 as a stick which is what I'm currently building. We do all our own engine and bodywork and one of our best friends is an upholestry guy. So the car is fairly nice but, even with that I'll have far more into then I care to think. So, Alan is pretty much correct about you can't build a super competitive G-H car without spending a boat load. Even if you can do most the work yourself. However, it also depends on what your definition of competitive is. If you're looking to run .6-.7 under and aren't all interested in having it be the nicest car in the country it can be done on a reasonable budget. I can't say if you're looking to be somewhat budget conscious that I'd look into a 396/402. While the majority of the parts don't cost anymore (pistons,rods,etc). Some of the castings as well as having really good springs, rockers, lifters which require a little more attention. That's the reason I chose to build the new car with a small block. After running our 350HP I knew I couldn't afford to keep up in A-E/S on my own. If you're looking to go -1.-1.25 under you'll have to spend the money for the best stuff no matter what combination you'd choose to use. Best of luck Rick Ryan

02-18-2013, 02:23 AM	#9
Ed Carpenter Live Reporter Join Date: May 2006 Location: Dripping Springs, Tx Posts: 2,709 Likes: 186 Liked 520 Times in 132 Posts	Re: 1970 nova ??????'S Gary Waldo's stick car is for sale. __________________ Ed Carpenter 2005 Chevy Cobalt A/SM Race Engine Development

02-18-2013, 10:01 AM	#10
FLEMING Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Posts: 264 Likes: 48 Liked 55 Times in 26 Posts	Re: 1970 nova ??????'S I was looking at making my nova into a stocker (pretty much already is other than motor).. I had 2 good engine guys qoute me a motor Both were $12,500 for a good piece... That I was told would have to be ran on kill to run .8 to .9 under in H/J/K That is a BAD place to be I have found out.. So I have came to the conclusion that I have to either get a different car/class combo or not race stock... I have always wanted to race stock eliminator but I am not gonna spend 12 grand on a motor to do so, I race for fun but I want to be able to have some return on my investment.. so spending 3-4k on a bracket motor and I can more than pay for that in a year racing local.. Maybe someday if the powerball numbers hit..