Hydraulic lifters - IHRA crate motors

[Robert Swartz]

At long last I'm getting to the point, I can look forward to doing something. I almost have all the pieces together to assemble a Chevy 350 330hp (340 corrected) crate motor. I want a lifter recommendation. I'm not going with the Shubecks or Shermans on this first motor.

One guy I passed a few messages with said he has used both TRW replacement and Sealed Power anti pump up lifters and had good success with both. Looking to see if anyone has anything to add. The heads I have came out of Parson and Myers shop originally, they have good valve springs and are already prepped.

[Woodro Josey]

Robert, i would say any of the more popular lifters are good as there is only about 3 lifter companys anyway, but the main thing to keep in mind is Valve Spring pressure and not to have to much until you get the Camshaft broke in because if not done correctly, it could get very ugly and expensive!

[Robert Swartz]

Originally Posted by Woodro Josey

Robert, i would say any of the more popular lifters are good as there is only about 3 lifter companys anyway, but the main thing to keep in mind is Valve Spring pressure and not to have to much until you get the Camshaft broke in because if not done correctly, it could get very ugly and expensive!

Thanks Woodro. That's kind of what I thought. I've heard of guys running less than full pressure valve springs, some take out the inner spring. Have also heard of lower ratio rockers for this same purpose. It's been well over 20+ years since I've built one of these type motors, with hydraulic or flat tappets. I've had it recommended to me to use either Rotella or Castrol diesel motor oils, as these are the only ones that still contain zinc for the break in. Then run this with a mix of a regular oil or make sure I run a zinc additive when I change the oil.

Is the break in procedure still the same as the old days, we used to fire the motor and bring it up to about 2-2500 rpm and hold that for 10-20 minutes? This would allow the cam and lifters to take a set. I may be using a used camshaft, that's contingent on whether one of the people I've spoken with has an old spare for this combination. Otherwise, it will be a new cam.

[treessavoy]

I had great success with Rhoads lifters in my Mopar with a .555/535 lift cam.

JimR

[CrateCamaro]

Originally Posted by Robert Swartz

Is the break in procedure still the same as the old days, we used to fire the motor and bring it up to about 2-2500 rpm and hold that for 10-20 minutes? This would allow the cam and lifters to take a set. I may be using a used camshaft, that's contingent on whether one of the people I've spoken with has an old spare for this combination. Otherwise, it will be a new cam.

ARP lube on the camshaft, Rotella T Oil and stock 200,000 mile valve springs (less than 45 lbs on the seat for sure) weather the cam is old or new and you will have smooth sailing for the break in. I run 6L of Valvoline Oil "Not for Street Use" oil that has zinc in it with one ACDelco engine oil supplement for bracket mode and never had trouble yet. Cam is ground on a pro core which might be helping things as well.

[Robert Swartz]

Thanks to all for the replys. Seems I have a bit more to learn. Will drink all this in and prepare for the next step. It appears I have procured a cam for this project. The fellow I purchased a set of Ross pistons from, has a Comp Cams shaft that he used in a previous crate motor.

Hopefully, one of these days I can meet some of you at a track, instead of these forums.