DSE Mini Tub Install Question

FireSale · 03-22-2014, 02:57 PM

Hi. I’m working on the install of a set of Detroit Speed Mini Tubs on the 68 Mustang coupe I plan on running in SS GT. I have a question for anyone who has done this before. I’ve measured and market the frame rails for the insert cuts and was planning on doing both of the rails before moving to the inside of the car to do the tubs themselves. The steps on the instruction video show finishing all of one side of the car, frame rail and tubs, before moving to the other side. It seems to me that it would leave the car more stable to seal up both the frame mods as soon as possible, then worry about the wheel tubs.

What do you think?

For those of you who have offered advice and encouragement on this project, I ditched the Mexican block in favor of a Ford Racing BOSS 302 with Crower rods and an Eagle crank. The rods are legal, and the crank is the best I could do given that the one on the NHRA list hasn’t been manufactured in 9 years…

Dale

gbur · 03-22-2014, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FireSail

Hi. I’m working on the install of a set of Detroit Speed Mini Tubs on the 68 Mustang coupe I plan on running in SS GT. I have a question for anyone who has done this before. I’ve measured and market the frame rails for the insert cuts and was planning on doing both of the rails before moving to the inside of the car to do the tubs themselves. The steps on the instruction video show finishing all of one side of the car, frame rail and tubs, before moving to the other side. It seems to me that it would leave the car more stable to seal up both the frame mods as soon as possible, then worry about the wheel tubs.

What do you think?

For those of you who have offered advice and encouragement on this project, I ditched the Mexican block in favor of a Ford Racing BOSS 302 with Crower rods and an Eagle crank. The rods are legal, and the crank is the best I could do given that the one on the NHRA list hasn’t been manufactured in 9 years…

Dale

reinforce rails by tac welding several strips so they stay located, before cutting ,measure x10, one cut

FireSale · 03-23-2014, 02:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbur

reinforce rails by tac welding several strips so they stay located, before cutting ,measure x10, one cut

That was a thought I had. I have a couple of spare lengths of 2X2 to tack to the back or bottom side of the cut area to hold everything in place for the surgery. I've seen temporary X braces used, too, but I don't have enough room for that. I have a Total Control sub frame connector and frame brace system installed and the unit keeps the frame quite stiff.

Dale

MAURICE BLENDHEIM · 03-23-2014, 09:31 PM

Dale…Assuming you have no rear suspension or fuel tank in the car. Block the car up on the pinch seams of the rocker sills near front leaf spring mount using wooden blocks. Also support the body at the rear shackle area. Make sure the body is level front and rear, also check to make sure doors open and close normally and trunk is aligned and the gaps are where you want them before any cutting. By using wooden blocks there is less of a chance the body will move around when cutting, the body must remain level. You can do both sides before tub removal. I done it with the tubs removed also, but braced the floor between the tubs to the area between trunk opening and package tray with flat bar. Measure and measure again otherwise you will be patching things up. Tack weld everything on both sides before finish welding takes place. The rule book says "The bottom of the frame rails can't be higher than the stock floor height", this is something that you should think about. What are you using for rear suspension? I hope this helps…Maurice.

FireSale · 03-24-2014, 12:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MAURICE BLENDHEIM

Dale…Assuming you have no rear suspension or fuel tank in the car. Block the car up on the pinch seams of the rocker sills near front leaf spring mount using wooden blocks. Also support the body at the rear shackle area. Make sure the body is level front and rear, also check to make sure doors open and close normally and trunk is aligned and the gaps are where you want them before any cutting. By using wooden blocks there is less of a chance the body will move around when cutting, the body must remain level. You can do both sides before tub removal. I done it with the tubs removed also, but braced the floor between the tubs to the area between trunk opening and package tray with flat bar. Measure and measure again otherwise you will be patching things up. Tack weld everything on both sides before finish welding takes place. The rule book says "The bottom of the frame rails can't be higher than the stock floor height", this is something that you should think about. What are you using for rear suspension? I hope this helps…Maurice.

Thanks. Currently the car is up on 4 six ton each jack stands. I can get another set to support the rear shackle area tomorrow. that was a concern I had. It's not quite level but I can fix that before I cut anything. The car has ChassisWorks sub frame connectors and the stands are placed at the front and back ends of each side. It feels stable.

One door has been removed but the other is still on and moves freely.

The fuel tank and complete rear end is out of the car as is the engine and trans, so the weight is about as far down as I can get it.

The Detroit Speed mini tub kit is similar to the one offered by ChassisWorks/Total Control for the pre 1970 Mustang. It replaces a section of the frame rail with a piece that is the same height as stock but jogs in to make the frame parallel behind the rear tires, so the floor remains unchanged.

Currently, I have no rear end or axle. Just a budget. A shipment from MoneyMaker should come Tuesday with Cal traks, Calvert's split mono springs and a hanger kit from Alex D. at MMR.

Thanks for the help and input.

Dale

MAURICE BLENDHEIM · 03-24-2014, 01:44 AM

Dale… Level and support are the most important factors. The rockers on a unibody car are structural members that connect the front to the rear and support (platform) the 1/4 panels ahead of the rear wheel opening into the door jamb. The inner and outer wheel housings also are structural, assisting with support to the rear half of the body. Unless the frame connectors are tied into the rockers, the rear subframe your about to remove is partially supporting the weight of the body. The supporting of the rear of the car as far back as you can is vital. I would also suggest mounting and lining up the other door, before you start cutting make sure the doors are latched closed. After you have done your tacking make sure your doors open and close normally as well as the trunk lid, then finish weld. Utilizing your cars integral members properly can save you some unnecessary tubing. Are your plans for a 29.5x11.5 x15 tire? Good Luck…Maurice.

03-22-2014, 02:57 PM	#1
FireSale VIP Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Lakewood Washington Posts: 1,407 Likes: 29 Liked 237 Times in 126 Posts	DSE Mini Tub Install Question Hi. I’m working on the install of a set of Detroit Speed Mini Tubs on the 68 Mustang coupe I plan on running in SS GT. I have a question for anyone who has done this before. I’ve measured and market the frame rails for the insert cuts and was planning on doing both of the rails before moving to the inside of the car to do the tubs themselves. The steps on the instruction video show finishing all of one side of the car, frame rail and tubs, before moving to the other side. It seems to me that it would leave the car more stable to seal up both the frame mods as soon as possible, then worry about the wheel tubs. What do you think? For those of you who have offered advice and encouragement on this project, I ditched the Mexican block in favor of a Ford Racing BOSS 302 with Crower rods and an Eagle crank. The rods are legal, and the crank is the best I could do given that the one on the NHRA list hasn’t been manufactured in 9 years… Dale __________________ Dale Shearon 68 Mustang 6394

03-23-2014, 09:31 PM	#4
MAURICE BLENDHEIM Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Langley (no igloos), British Columbia, Canada Posts: 569 Likes: 309 Liked 284 Times in 87 Posts	Re: DSE Mini Tub Install Question Dale…Assuming you have no rear suspension or fuel tank in the car. Block the car up on the pinch seams of the rocker sills near front leaf spring mount using wooden blocks. Also support the body at the rear shackle area. Make sure the body is level front and rear, also check to make sure doors open and close normally and trunk is aligned and the gaps are where you want them before any cutting. By using wooden blocks there is less of a chance the body will move around when cutting, the body must remain level. You can do both sides before tub removal. I done it with the tubs removed also, but braced the floor between the tubs to the area between trunk opening and package tray with flat bar. Measure and measure again otherwise you will be patching things up. Tack weld everything on both sides before finish welding takes place. The rule book says "The bottom of the frame rails can't be higher than the stock floor height", this is something that you should think about. What are you using for rear suspension? I hope this helps…Maurice.

03-24-2014, 01:44 AM	#6
MAURICE BLENDHEIM Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Langley (no igloos), British Columbia, Canada Posts: 569 Likes: 309 Liked 284 Times in 87 Posts	Re: DSE Mini Tub Install Question Dale… Level and support are the most important factors. The rockers on a unibody car are structural members that connect the front to the rear and support (platform) the 1/4 panels ahead of the rear wheel opening into the door jamb. The inner and outer wheel housings also are structural, assisting with support to the rear half of the body. Unless the frame connectors are tied into the rockers, the rear subframe your about to remove is partially supporting the weight of the body. The supporting of the rear of the car as far back as you can is vital. I would also suggest mounting and lining up the other door, before you start cutting make sure the doors are latched closed. After you have done your tacking make sure your doors open and close normally as well as the trunk lid, then finish weld. Utilizing your cars integral members properly can save you some unnecessary tubing. Are your plans for a 29.5x11.5 x15 tire? Good Luck…Maurice.