Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil

Rusty Davenport · 12-28-2015, 03:43 PM

OK on my 70 Nova 350 stocker build, I have the new motor in, fired it up with the Gibbs break in oil for 25-30 minutes at 2000 rpms using the low tension valve springs. Changed the filter and replaced the lost break in oil. Any thoughts out there about letting the break in oil stay in it and running it some with the new springs or does the break in oil need to come out now that the initial break in time is done ??? Any opinions on where to go from here ??? Is there a rush to get the break in oil out ???

Bob Gullett · 12-28-2015, 03:46 PM

I use the Valvoline Race Oil 10-30 non synthetic. Lots of zinc. But it doesn't hurt to run the break in oil.

Ed Wright · 12-28-2015, 04:38 PM

No big rush to get it out that I know of. I've had the best luck with new rings sealing up with that BR30 oil.
I know an engine builder that runs BR30 all the time in his own car, unless he has a tough heads up.

Michael Compton · 12-28-2015, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

No big rush to get it out that I know of. I've had the best luck with new rings sealing up with that BR30 oil.
I know an engine builder that runs BR30 all the time in his own car, unless he has a tough heads up.

^^^^^^^ Ed is correct. That is exactly what I have been told also. I was running the lightweight stuff and will be switching to BR30 full-time next year. My engine builder just tore my motor down and said to switch to BR30 as the internals did not look good. We even spin the oil pump over via a drill before we ever start the car, still no help.

Tom Meyer · 12-28-2015, 07:43 PM

The gibbs oil .has a lot of paraffin's [wax] if you do not have heat In the motor it gums up the fine microns in the filter. This starves... some places in the engine and causes problems.TOM

Ed Wright · 12-28-2015, 09:44 PM

Zero-10wt Royal Purple is the only oil I would run cold. Never tried to run anything else without putting some heat in it. Patterson puts Gibbs (now Driven) oil in his Comp & SS stuff. I use the BR30 (5W30 wt break-in oil) with no problems. If you drain it cold, it leaves a lot of stuff black in your pan. I like to warm it up, or drain it not long after shutting it off. Black stuff is still in suspension. I haven't tested the zero wt Gibb's/Driven oil yet. Alan Patterson says it's good, so I am sure it is. I run my clearances on the right side. Loose engines seem more forgiving to me. Just what I have seen with my junk. Can't afford to have it done, so cobble my junk together myself.

Bob Gullett · 12-29-2015, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michael Compton

I was using the XP1 (5w20) all year and had the end result of oil related issues. I know it leaves black stuff in the pan and have seen the wax/paraffin suspended in the bottle. Once you shake it up, it breaks up and goes away.

Anyone tried running Mobil 1 5w20? I assume there would be nothing wrong with running it.

Stay away from this oil. This picture is from our back up superstock motor a few years ago when we pulled the pan after using the Gibbs XP1 5-20. Had the filter plug up twice on the stocker resulting in no oil pressure. We use either the Valvoline race oil or the Maxima race oils.

Jim Hawkins · 12-29-2015, 12:35 PM

All I have ever used is mobil 1, 5w20 or 5w30. Patterson had me use this oil back in 1990 and have used it ever since. On the dyno at Madcap drained the Gibbs break in oil and switched to the mobil 1 and saw no difference. Actually picked up a couple. Filter and bearings always look good. This is the regular synthetic stuff at the parts store, not the race oil you have to special order. Had some Gibbs lightweight sitting here for about a year and when I poured it out of the bottle it had a inconsistent look to it. Like stuff had separated. Drained that one qt. out and stayed with mobil 1. I stock up on it when it is on sale at Napa and it always looks fine even after sitting for a long time.
Also I work on the forklifts out here at a facility where they used to do all the blending for Gibbs. All the oil used to come from this place before the switch to the Driven branding. I asked one of the lab guys there about the separation of the additives in the oil and he said you may have to shake the stuff up if it sits awhile. Seemed weird to me to have to do that!

GUMP · 12-29-2015, 12:49 PM

I run Mobil 1 in all of my race cars. The 396 that I just pulled from my COPO looked super clean after over 200 runs. The bearings looked new.

Ed Wright · 12-29-2015, 02:26 PM

I used Mobil1 for years, then started hearing how I should use "real race oil with more zink", things don't look one bit better than they did with Mobil1. Just costs more money. No sludge, either.

12-28-2015, 03:43 PM	#1
Rusty Davenport Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Nashville N.C. Posts: 506 Likes: 4 Liked 101 Times in 27 Posts	Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil OK on my 70 Nova 350 stocker build, I have the new motor in, fired it up with the Gibbs break in oil for 25-30 minutes at 2000 rpms using the low tension valve springs. Changed the filter and replaced the lost break in oil. Any thoughts out there about letting the break in oil stay in it and running it some with the new springs or does the break in oil need to come out now that the initial break in time is done ??? Any opinions on where to go from here ??? Is there a rush to get the break in oil out ??? __________________ NHRA AND IHRA STOCK ELIMINATOR 2772

12-28-2015, 03:46 PM	#2
Bob Gullett VIP Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 1,105 Likes: 57 Liked 495 Times in 115 Posts	Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil I use the Valvoline Race Oil 10-30 non synthetic. Lots of zinc. But it doesn't hurt to run the break in oil. __________________ 68 Chevy11 327 F/S Last edited by Bob Gullett; 12-28-2015 at 04:17 PM.

12-28-2015, 04:38 PM	#3
Ed Wright Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Sand Springs, OK Posts: 8,132 Likes: 896 Liked 390 Times in 170 Posts	Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil No big rush to get it out that I know of. I've had the best luck with new rings sealing up with that BR30 oil. I know an engine builder that runs BR30 all the time in his own car, unless he has a tough heads up. __________________ Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA

12-28-2015, 07:43 PM	#5
Tom Meyer Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Pierce NE Posts: 936 Likes: 78 Liked 351 Times in 120 Posts	Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil The gibbs oil .has a lot of paraffin's [wax] if you do not have heat In the motor it gums up the fine microns in the filter. This starves... some places in the engine and causes problems.TOM __________________ Tom Meyer 5240 SS Stock ???

12-28-2015, 09:44 PM	#6
Ed Wright Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Sand Springs, OK Posts: 8,132 Likes: 896 Liked 390 Times in 170 Posts	Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil Zero-10wt Royal Purple is the only oil I would run cold. Never tried to run anything else without putting some heat in it. Patterson puts Gibbs (now Driven) oil in his Comp & SS stuff. I use the BR30 (5W30 wt break-in oil) with no problems. If you drain it cold, it leaves a lot of stuff black in your pan. I like to warm it up, or drain it not long after shutting it off. Black stuff is still in suspension. I haven't tested the zero wt Gibb's/Driven oil yet. Alan Patterson says it's good, so I am sure it is. I run my clearances on the right side. Loose engines seem more forgiving to me. Just what I have seen with my junk. Can't afford to have it done, so cobble my junk together myself. __________________ Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA Last edited by Ed Wright; 12-28-2015 at 09:47 PM.

12-29-2015, 12:35 PM	#8
Jim Hawkins Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Posts: 198 Likes: 89 Liked 115 Times in 35 Posts	Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil All I have ever used is mobil 1, 5w20 or 5w30. Patterson had me use this oil back in 1990 and have used it ever since. On the dyno at Madcap drained the Gibbs break in oil and switched to the mobil 1 and saw no difference. Actually picked up a couple. Filter and bearings always look good. This is the regular synthetic stuff at the parts store, not the race oil you have to special order. Had some Gibbs lightweight sitting here for about a year and when I poured it out of the bottle it had a inconsistent look to it. Like stuff had separated. Drained that one qt. out and stayed with mobil 1. I stock up on it when it is on sale at Napa and it always looks fine even after sitting for a long time. Also I work on the forklifts out here at a facility where they used to do all the blending for Gibbs. All the oil used to come from this place before the switch to the Driven branding. I asked one of the lab guys there about the separation of the additives in the oil and he said you may have to shake the stuff up if it sits awhile. Seemed weird to me to have to do that!

12-29-2015, 12:49 PM	#9
GUMP VIP Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Shelby, NC Posts: 1,817 Likes: 2,157 Liked 2,336 Times in 549 Posts	Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil I run Mobil 1 in all of my race cars. The 396 that I just pulled from my COPO looked super clean after over 200 runs. The bearings looked new.

12-29-2015, 02:26 PM	#10
Ed Wright Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Sand Springs, OK Posts: 8,132 Likes: 896 Liked 390 Times in 170 Posts	Re: Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil I used Mobil1 for years, then started hearing how I should use "real race oil with more zink", things don't look one bit better than they did with Mobil1. Just costs more money. No sludge, either. __________________ Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA Last edited by Ed Wright; 12-29-2015 at 02:27 PM. Reason: Still can't type...