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#1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Nashville N.C.
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The hydraulic lifter game is all new to me after years of solid lifter super stock racing. Forgive me you guys I have already ask, but I just have to put it out there for the crowd..... I understand the "spin the push rod and stop when the slack is out" no preload just stop---that is "0" lash. I also understand that "0" lash is where I want to be BUT LET ME ASK THIS......I have 1/2 turn from first feeling resistence to stopping the push rod completely from spinning. The question is..... do you stop at first sign of resistence, medium resistence or maximum resistence before stopping the push rod completely ??? Just curious....how does this "spin resistence" effect performance ??? Where do you want to be in the setting, light, medium or heavy resistence ???
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#2 |
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Join Date: Apr 2007
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Rusty, my boss said he'd take what we talked about on these heads, so come see me ! And we'll help you out on the valve adjustment too.
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#3 |
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You can just use a .002" feeler gage.......Thas what I always did with hydraulics in a race engine.....
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Rich Biebel S/C 1479 Stock 147R |
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#4 |
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Rusty;
On initial setup, I use an .010 feeler guage under the rocker tip and bottom the lifter button (collapsed ) just as if it were a solid lifter. This puts the button roughly in the middle of the travel. After a few runs I quickly look for loose rockers (or tight) and then go back and adjust to zero lash, medium resistance at the rocker tip. Dont mess with the pushrod spinning for feel because it takes too long.(even good lifters will bleed down at full lift) Repeat this process a few times in the next several runs (or dyno pulls) until everybody "settles down" and you have consistent zero lash feel at all rockers. After this you should be able to run it like a grocery getter but I alway look under the valve covers for "dead mice" following a heads up or hopped up run (nervous at 8 thousand). There is definate performance in monitoring max valve lift in an engine that would like another .150 or so if it could get it, at least that's what I have always thought. TT |
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#5 |
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Well (do not ever) spin the pushrod as you can preload the lifter all the way through its
travel and still spin the pushrod. the best way i have found on initial build is to have the engine on the stand and run a pre lube tool with a drill to pump the lifters up and adjust them with someone running the drill, this of course is after pre-lubing long enough to get oil to the top on all cylinders. Once everything is pumped up use a .002 feeler gauge to give yourself a little clearance between the rocker and the valve tip when running and pumped up.
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Ron Mattson 5015 STK |
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#6 |
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let me state the conditions.......motor runs great...wanted to make a 50 run check up.....adjusting nut has 3 flats (or 1/2 turn) from light resistance to locking the push rod up and no spin......cold motor......no heat.......some push rods spin, some are solid and don't spin.......shouldn't they all have some spin or not ??? These lifters have about .005 travel to bottom out. Should have included that originally. First race car I have ever owned with stamped rockers if you can't already tell that.
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#7 |
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I would dare say, you can be just as accurate feeling the push rod start to bind as you can be with a feeler gauge. It's all subjective anyway, isn't it?
The trick is to re-center the (ball type) rocker when you get real close. I used to use the .002 feeler gauge deal . Then I lost a spring steel plunger retainer and lifter. So now, I feel for zero , then go one flat of the nut past, (1/6th turn) to take the load off the clip. It doesn't seem to make a difference, plus you don't hear all that clicking and clattering that sounds like WAY more than .002 sometimes! "some push rods spin, some are solid and don't spin.......shouldn't they all have some spin or not ??" No, not necessarily . Some lifters might still be pumped up with oil, and some not. Keep everything near the top of travel and consistent.
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"We are lucky we don't get as much Government as we pay for." Will Rogers Last edited by Mark Yacavone; 12-10-2010 at 05:59 PM. |
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#8 |
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I dont agree with preloading a (race) lifter ever as oil pressure can pump it up and hang the valve open causing a sealing issue, and if your hearing lifter clack you have either more
than .002 clearance or the best hearing known to mankind. most solids are barely audible at .014 with open headers. just my $ .02
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Ron Mattson 5015 STK |
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#9 |
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Short travel lifters will never pump up. They act like a solid so set them like a solid. Bottom the push rod seat in the lifter and set .006 to .010 lash...
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Bub Whitaker |
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#10 |
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