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Old 09-04-2013, 05:01 PM   #101
Pedigo Perf
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Default Re: You got to be kidding?

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why would turn my rocket into a turd to race on a junk track for peanuts and be treated like sh_t by the sanctioning body?
Soon to join Kyle in forum purgatory. Tisk Tisk
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:01 PM   #102
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Default Re: You got to be kidding?

I'm at Numidia Dragway every weekend from April through October, anytime you're feeling luckly, show up and put a number on the window just like you do in super stock!
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:04 PM   #103
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I'm at Numidia Dragway every weekend from April through October, anytime you're feeling luckly, show up and put a number on the window just like you do in super stock!
If they let you race there every weekend it must be the only place you can keep your attitude in check
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:53 PM   #104
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Default Re: You got to be kidding?

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I'm at Numidia Dragway every weekend from April through October, anytime you're feeling luckly, show up and put a number on the window just like you do in super stock!
It would be more fun to see how fast you are. Heads ups are a kick. :-)
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Old 09-04-2013, 06:01 PM   #105
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What has been proposed and is pretty much is a simple wing tab kit with a nut and bolt. Originally I had proposed this with a lock nut, but it was rejected due to the fact that the lock nut could fall off. What has been decided on is to use the wing tabs and a nice aircraft bolt with possibly a castle style nut and a cotter key. This system will be in addition to our already existing spring tabs or A/B collector tabs. The actual Bolt / Nut / Cotter Key has not been decided on. I dont know if it will be a 1/4", if it will be a castle style, and what the clip or cotter key will have to look like. But what I do know is that it will be simple and inexpensive.

Mark Lelchook
D/ED F/SA
Mark,

The is not need to use a castellated nut with a cotter pin.
An aviation/aerospace specific quality locking nut should be more than sufficient.
The fasteners shown below are what you will find typically in any commercial aircraft flying in the skies everyday.

I suggest the following fasteners:

Bolt:
AN3-4A (Has drilled Shank for Cotter Pin)

Washer:
AN960-10

Locking Nut:
AN363-10
MS9321-10
NAS1587-3
MS21046C3 (High Temperature)

In the event NHRA decides to use a castellated nut and cotter pin, the part numbers are as follows:

Cotter Pin:
MS9245-22 (Corrosion Resistant/High Temperature)

Castellated Nut:
AN310-C3 (Corrosion Resistant)
MS17825-3 (Castellated, Corrosion Resistant Self Locking Nut)

If you need the technical specifications or data to substantiate the use of any of these fasteners, just let me know or send me a PM.
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Old 09-04-2013, 06:28 PM   #106
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Default Re: You got to be kidding?

I'm surprised steel self locking nuts aren't accepted. The recip airplanes (that's how old I am) that I used to work on used them to hold the exhaust on. Silver plated. I still have some. Our collectors don't get as hot, nor nearly as long as the header pipes did at the jugs on those engines (P&W 4360s). I have them on my car, have never had one loosen. Had castle nuts & keys a lot of places, but not at the jugs. I will probably just tig weld mine.
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Old 09-04-2013, 06:44 PM   #107
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Default Re: You got to be kidding?

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I'm at Numidia Dragway every weekend from April through October, anytime you're feeling luckly, show up and put a number on the window just like you do in super stock!
Ed, I am just curious....I checked the point standings at Numidia and couldn't find your name???? How are you doing this year?
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Old 09-04-2013, 06:48 PM   #108
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Default Re: You got to be kidding?

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I'm surprised steel self locking nuts aren't accepted. The recip airplanes (that's how old I am) that I used to work on used them to hold the exhaust on. Silver plated. I still have some. Our collectors don't get as hot, nor nearly as long as the header pipes did at the jugs on those engines (P&W 4360s). I have them on my car, have never had one loosen. Had castle nuts & keys a lot of places, but not at the jugs. I will probably just tig weld mine.
Ed,
The parts I listed are very affordable and the Silver plated ones are still available too.
I totally agree with you, a reciprocating engine generates a lot more vibration than a race engine would. I believe the use of castellated nut and cotter pin is an overkill.
In my years in the aviation business, I have never seen an aviation spec self locking nut come loose.
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Old 09-04-2013, 07:03 PM   #109
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I have had a meeting with Danny Gracia this past week at Indy. We have talked a few times previously, and NHRA tech along with other header fabricators input have come up with some ideas and I believe have come up with a final solution which should be in writing very very soon.
To begin this rule is absolutly nessesary, there have been lots of incidents and people have been seriously hurt. NHRA has to cover there butts from further incidents, and keep racers from getting hurt in the future. I believe this is a good rule, and now that simple collector retention devises have been thought of, it will be simple and inexpensive for each one of us to install.
Mark Lelchook
D/ED F/SA
Mark, I strongly agree with you on this and thank you for your involvment.
I have a couple of tubes that slip in to my collectors with the remaining tubes welded. I would like to know if any tethers or additional tabs will be required for applications such as mine? I have learned not to assume anything regarding tech.

Tracy
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Old 09-04-2013, 07:15 PM   #110
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Default Re: You got to be kidding?

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buzzinhalfdozen aka class racer's resident moron, I mean "master tech" continues to try and entertain us.
Joe Buchanan SS/BX 3117 has forgotten more about drag racing then you will possibly accumulate in your lifetime, please grow up 1320 and show us some class that I know you must have.Claude Ruel
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