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#1 |
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Lewiston NY
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Took the Mustang to the strip last Friday, to try out after new cam ,headers ,and valve job. And I could not hold it on the line above 1000 rpm. I am now switching over to a Aerospace manual master cylinder and a Bear adjustable proportioning valve. I need to drill the pedal arm to get a 7:1 ratio. How in the world do you get that arm out. This 89 HB and once was a stick car. And also what do you do for a positive stop for the arm . help
Thanks Slickfoot |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Gulf Breeze, FL
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It was a horrible experience working on mine as well Slick. You will need to remove the driver seat so you can lie on your back...the work under the dash will require patience, ingenuity with tools and bountiful cursing. Being under 60 years of age would surely help matters I'm guessing.
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Rich Taylor I/SA - 321 |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Apr 2009
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We have a Raybestos stock replacement master cylinder on our that i think is meant for a SVO mustang of an earlier year. We bought the Steada manual conversion mount to eliminate the power unit and made no modifications to brake pedal ratio. Car holds to over 3000 RPM if you really want to push on it but we 2 step it to around 2500-2600 no issues.. This car also had had both stock front and rear brakes and now has aerospace disc on all 4 wheels and we've changed nothing in the master cylinder setup. might be cheaper and easier to look into a different master cylinder if aerospace is telling you that you need to have a certain ratio to make it work properly..
Brad |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Florida
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You do need to change the ratio with aero space master Cylinder. It is hard to get out like hand over fist said. Once it is out you drill the pedal for a new bolt that changes the ratio. I have 4 wheel disc from aero space on my 1988 and can get 1900 plus psi pressure. I did put a line lock on each front wheel. I can hold 3000 rpm pretty easily
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Marty H |
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#5 |
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Having done something similar on a 68 coupe, I offer my sympathies. I removed the seat and steering column to reach the sucker.
To Riches patience, cussing and ingenious use of tools, add a nice box of bandaids. And aspirin... Dale
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Dale Shearon 68 Mustang 6394 |
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#6 |
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Location: from Vancouver BC Canada, now in Nova Scotia
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I don`t know if the earlier FOX Mustangs like my 85 are different, but I find it easier to just remove the entire brake/clutch pedal bracket out as an assembly than removing the brake pedal alone. You need to drop the steering column down, but with those 2 nuts removed, and 4 nuts securing the bracket to the power brake booster, or manual brake adapter mount, plus i screw at the dash frame, and it comes out in about 1/2 hour. On my 85, I used an actual manual brake pedal, adapter and master cylinder for a 79-82 Mustang from the local wrecking yard. On my cars, there are 2 different brake pedal pivot positions, 1 for manual, one for power brakes. By 89, I assume power brakes were standard, so your bracket may only have the 1 hole.
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NHRA 6390 STK M/S 85 Mustang |
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#7 |
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A line lock on each front wheel sounds like a major invitation for disaster. Rethink this please. It might have been easier to install, but a problem with one makes the turn, and there is nothing you can do about it.
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#8 |
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Location: rohnert park,ca
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remove the drivers seat, then the dash assy complete. easiest way I have found when I did mine.
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bob beals 7244 |
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#9 |
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Lewiston NY
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So far I got seat out , lower dash out, upper dash out, and I have to see the nut toward the pass. side yet. called it a night. hit it again Saturday
Thanks for the reply. Slickfoot |
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#10 |
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: E TN
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I've been able to just remove the bolt but it's probably easier to remove the whole quadrant. If you remove it all it makes it easy to mock it all up including mounting the MC. You can make a guide for the brake rod and weld it in so it would be impossible for it to pull out of MC and fall down. I've also mocked it all up and bled the MC by pushing the pedal while it's all in a vise, much easier. For a stop you can weld a piece of tubing at an angle and use a bolt in it with nuts on either end of the tubing as an adjustment.
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