Calling for opinions, next step concerning oil

[Bob Gullett]

Originally Posted by Michael Compton

I was using the XP1 (5w20) all year and had the end result of oil related issues. I know it leaves black stuff in the pan and have seen the wax/paraffin suspended in the bottle. Once you shake it up, it breaks up and goes away.

Anyone tried running Mobil 1 5w20? I assume there would be nothing wrong with running it.

Stay away from this oil. This picture is from our back up superstock motor a few years ago when we pulled the pan after using the Gibbs XP1 5-20. Had the filter plug up twice on the stocker resulting in no oil pressure. We use either the Valvoline race oil or the Maxima race oils.

[Jim Hawkins]

All I have ever used is mobil 1, 5w20 or 5w30. Patterson had me use this oil back in 1990 and have used it ever since. On the dyno at Madcap drained the Gibbs break in oil and switched to the mobil 1 and saw no difference. Actually picked up a couple. Filter and bearings always look good. This is the regular synthetic stuff at the parts store, not the race oil you have to special order. Had some Gibbs lightweight sitting here for about a year and when I poured it out of the bottle it had a inconsistent look to it. Like stuff had separated. Drained that one qt. out and stayed with mobil 1. I stock up on it when it is on sale at Napa and it always looks fine even after sitting for a long time.
Also I work on the forklifts out here at a facility where they used to do all the blending for Gibbs. All the oil used to come from this place before the switch to the Driven branding. I asked one of the lab guys there about the separation of the additives in the oil and he said you may have to shake the stuff up if it sits awhile. Seemed weird to me to have to do that!

[GUMP]

I run Mobil 1 in all of my race cars. The 396 that I just pulled from my COPO looked super clean after over 200 runs. The bearings looked new.

[Ed Wright]

I used Mobil1 for years, then started hearing how I should use "real race oil with more zink", things don't look one bit better than they did with Mobil1. Just costs more money. No sludge, either.

[Mike Pearson]

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

I used Mobil1 for years, then started hearing how I should use "real race oil with more zink", things don't look one bit better than they did with Mobil1. Just costs more money. No sludge, either.

Same here Ed. I used Mobile 1 but after breaking a couple of lifters I decided not to use any more passenger car oil or filters. I have been using the Valvoline synthetic Racing oil and I have a System One oil filter. Gibbs Break in oil for the first 10 - 15 runs then the syn.

[Alan Roehrich]

The thing with motor oil and additives is the same as with a lot of other things in the racing world: more is not always better.

An engine can only use so much ZDDP ("zinc"), molydisulfide, and other additives. And an oil can only hold so much of any additive(s) in suspension. After that point is reached, the additives only serve to take the place of lubricating oil, and create deposits.

Combine those deposits and excess additives with oil filters that have a very fine filtration media, and you can have a recipe for disaster.

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by Mike Pearson

Same here Ed. I used Mobile 1 but after breaking a couple of lifters I decided not to use any more passenger car oil or filters. I have been using the Valvoline synthetic Racing oil and I have a System One oil filter. Gibbs Break in oil for the first 10 - 15 runs then the syn.

Only reason I got off of Mobile1 is I was burning the ends off a couple of intake pushrods on cold starts. I was lectured about not having race oil with more zink. Race oil didn't help the pushrods, I had changed the lifters. Had to file a small groove to add oil upstairs. That fixed that. Just never did change back, but I think I will now. Have used up the race oil I bought. Mobil1 is much cheaper. I have also had very good luck with 5W20 Valvoline VR1 as well. If I have a heads up I'm concerned with, and I am feeling good (don't always anymore), and I think my rings are sealed up, I will still put Royal Purple zero-10wt in it. If ring seal is not good, that zero wt oil will slow you down. Ask me how I know. LOL

[Frank Castros]

How about posting a poll about oil?

[Eman]

Why would you run dirty break in oil in your brand new motor? Is oil that expensive? I break a motor in and drain the oil, replace the filter and cut the filter open. the oil will look metallic if you drain some into a glass jar as it's coming out.
I also install rare earth (neodymium)magnets throughout my motor, if you've never used one you have no idea how strong they are.
As for oil I went from Mobil 1 with Lucas Zinc additive to Valvoline VR-1 10w-30 and now Lucas Hot Rod oil. Lucas supports the sport and the oil is good. It's been available from Summit at a good price and with their policy it's free shipping. Couldn't buy VR-1 10w-30 locally so I was using Amazon for it.

[Ed Wright]

NAPA Auto Parts stores around here carry Valvoline VR1.