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#1 |
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Join Date: Apr 2016
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I need experienced Stock racers' opinions please. I've been reading a lot of the threads on here, specifically ones I search for about money to get into Stock or SS. Most every thread goes on and on about how you gotta spend $50k on a stocker to race it.
Thinking of getting into NHRA Stock (at the divisional level for now) from the bracket racing perspective and I see people winning from the bottom half of the qualifying sheet wondering why folks act like it's required to spend that kind of money to go Stock racing. Maybe I'm just naive, so I'm open to enlightenment please. With an average of 6 or 7 cars in f/sa per race out of 70-100 cars, how likely is it I run one? How often would you guys say you run someone in your class for heads up? Assuming I'm decent bracket racer and can do okay every other time, those handful of races I go up against my own class are just part of the deal right? Surely some races I wouldn't hit another f/sa, yeah? And if I'm not the fastest f/sa anyway, why bother trying to go all out on it for now? |
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#2 | |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: N.S. CANADA
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I've have not been to many races,maybe 25 nats,div and opens.I have been in five heads-ups races in G/SA. So that's 20% of the race I've been to I have hit a car in my class. I'm 3 for 5 and only 1 time was i the faster car.
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1231 FS/D Drag Pak 1231 E/SA 71 Demon Kelly MacKay Last edited by dartman; 04-21-2016 at 02:01 PM. |
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#3 |
Live Reporter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Dripping Springs, Tx
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You don't have to spend 50k to race stock. Beard doesn't have close to that and he can kick *** at any race he goes to even those 100k cars. My dad has told me many times your car doesn't care if the other is 100k and came out of a 500k rig. It doesn't matter.
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Ed Carpenter 2005 Chevy Cobalt A/SM Race Engine Development |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Columbus, OH
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I don't have $50K in my Super Stocker, nor is there $50K in Terry's Stocker I drive. They're not the fastest by a long shot, but they've both won Wallys and World Championships. *CAN* you blow $50K on a Stocker? I imagine. Guess it all depends on what your goals are. Pick your battles.
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Michael Beard - NHRA/IHRA 3216 S/SS |
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#5 |
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Location: Bardstown, KY
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For someone wanting to get into Stock on a budget and might be afraid of a heads up pairing, the "non roll bar required" classes ( N/S-N/SA and down ) would be the way to go.
Not as many racers in those classes. The only downside is they don't run as quick as an F class car, but the buy in cost is a lot less also. It all depends on how much you want to spend, but the pay out for 1st place is the same for any class in Stock.
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Alan Mackin Stock 3777/ SS 3377 P/SA & SS/PA Fox Thunderbird I/PS '95 Mustang GT |
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#6 |
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Location: Bardstown, KY
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ooops
double post
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Alan Mackin Stock 3777/ SS 3377 P/SA & SS/PA Fox Thunderbird I/PS '95 Mustang GT |
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#7 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
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The car I have (which already has a roll bar) I've already looked into it, the combination I think I'd like best is a natural E but I don't know that I can make weight, forcing me to F. I could also get into a natural Q but with the majority in the 10s and 11s I don't have a history of doing well at the stripe when I'm the significantly slower car, so that means either bother losing a bunch with a 13.0 car until/if I get better or get mid 11s like everyone else and suffer through the heads up. My question here is kind of, how much of that suffering should I expect? |
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#8 |
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Depends on where you are located. There are a ton of F cars in Div. 1 & 3. You'll spend a lot of time playing the ladder trying to dodge people. There are less in G, if you can add the weight.
Unless you're chasing a bucket list/Wally, quite honestly there is little value in class racing anymore. Tons of time off work and lots of travel for very little track time and poor financial return on investment anymore. There are a *lot* of big money bracket racing opportunities these days that provide more bang for the buck. If it's something you want to do just for the sake of doing it, you'll find a lot of help and resources on this forum. Best of luck with your endeavor!
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Michael Beard - NHRA/IHRA 3216 S/SS |
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#9 |
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$50,000 for F/SA from scratch.
First is to find a car that can run F/SA. How much will that cost? Estimate for a good body, suspension and interior at least $15,000 Transmission Converter and Shifter $3,000 Rear Suspension, Body, Driveshaft $4,000 properly upgraded. Front Suspension, Line Lock, Cooling fans, stuff $1000 Roll Bar, Seat Belts, Seat, Jacket, Helmet about $2,000 Stock Eliminator Engine Competitive $10,000 Wheels and Tires $3,000 Electrical and Instrumentation $1,000 Paint and Body $2500 Everything else $1000 Personal time building it! Priceless ! Wife for Dinner and Shopping or Jewelry to explain why you are spending $50,000 on a car she cannot drive..? $10,000 Reliable Vehicle and Trailer to Tow with $30,000 YEAH I can see $50,000 or more investment to run F/SA! Even if you get a ready-to-go car most for F/SA will be in the $35k range. Still will need upgrades to keep it reliable. Can run Brackets anywhere and Stock races are everywhere with NHRA, IHRA and Independent S/SS Series! My 2 Cents D Last edited by Dan Fahey; 04-21-2016 at 04:56 PM. |
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#10 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
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And yeah, kind of those things. I tried 1/8 racing last year but I found I don't like it near as well as 1/4 racing and I wanted more of a challenge than ET sportsman (1/4 around here). I'm young enough where if I hate it I can say I tried it then go back to bracket. I appreciate the responses. |
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