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#11 | |
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And Ed I don’t exactly know what you mean without the help of the contingency sponsors and their postings we wouldn’t get paid my thought is you better load up with every decal you can, winning a national at $1200 versus 8000+
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KEITH MAYERS 2-1/2 X somebody Still many X nobody |
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#12 |
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I just use water & Cooling System Rust Inhibiter from NAPA.
No problems with rust.
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Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA Last edited by Ed Wright; 04-18-2019 at 08:25 AM. |
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#13 |
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Keith, I don't do this for the pennies contingency sponsors pay but my cars are stickered up with the with the products I use. 22 are contingency sponsors, the rest are not. $8,000 no mind $300 will effect my racing program.
Last edited by 1320racer; 04-18-2019 at 06:39 AM. |
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#14 |
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#15 |
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I started using Evans Coolant last season and immediately saw some reduced temperature benefit, and the cooling system stayed pristine. However; for class racing it immediately became impractical when using a chiller .. given the fact that it looses its effectiveness if mixed with water.
I believe it would be ideal for any street or other performance application that maintains a closed cooling cavity, but useless for quick cool downs between rounds. Like Ed, a good clean water source and rust inhibiting additive works best.
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Bill Bagley 4561 STK Endeavor to Persevere! |
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#16 |
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Thank you all for your replies. I think I will stay with water and red line water wetter.
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John Bender 1969 STK |
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#17 |
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water wetter does nothing except lighten your wallet
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#18 |
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My customers have had real good luck in Circle track engine with different brands of water wetter. I think they help prevent localized boiling of the water and keep steam build up to a minimum. I suspect that most of them are just a surfactant.The reduced surface tension keeps the water in contact with the metal and it allows heat transfer instead of building steam/bubbles. I recommend that they use any good brand. I have a couple of customers that are into custom cars and restorations. Both of them swear by the Evans product. They are mostly interested in keeping cool at idle and rust build up in the system. I have not personally used Evans product.
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Adger Smith (Former SS) |
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#19 | |
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I never leave the water in my engine for any length of time. I drain it each day after racing. I use just plain water either from home or the track. I don't have any corrosion issues. the car also stays plenty cool. Never above 180 even on the hottest of days.
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Mike Pearson 2485 SS |
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#20 |
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I'm not sure if it applies to what's being sold on the retail market, but I can tell you that water additives in general are necessary thing. I worked a long time for a manufacturer and part of the job was maintaining the cooling tower and high pressure boilers. Both required additives, though each was different.
Tiny bubbles can be entrapped in the liquid and they act like an extremely aggresive sand blast sort of way. They will pit and remove metal up to absolute destruction. In addition, they are tiny pockets of insulation inside the stream and can seriously affect how much the water can reduce heat. The water can't carry away heat if there's an air bubble between it and what you're trying to contact. Again, I have no idea of what's being sold. But from running, maintaining, and repairing million dollar systems I can vouch that it's a solid concept. |
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