Any ignition guru's out there

classof65 · 06-03-2007, 09:19 PM

The car has grounds as follows.

Braided body ground to block. ground from block to frame, ground from battery to both the engine and frame - the MSD is grounded on the battery negative. I have a ground wire from the ateering column to the engine as well. Of course there are other grounds for switches and stuff.

I have disconnected all of the rpm switches that operated the retard unti and have the box wired as ignition only. I've unpluged the tach, removed the high rpm limit chip.

I was attempting to cure the double or tripple pop at the launch AND the light pop at the top of the gears. All I did was add a shielded ground and now the thing won't start - well it starts and burps and grunts then quite. I've even reversed the green and purple wires in the lead as a validation.

On Oh S--t I didn't mention. When I was getting ready to change the cable I thought I had turned the master switch off but hadn't and of course the first thing I did was short out the main (heavy to battery) lead to the MSD box. Not for long as it only went CRACK once. I wouldn't have thought that would hurt the box, but who knows. I wired it back to begin with the same way it was wired before - timing was checked before I did the work - yes it was skipping around and I did use a non degree wheel style lite. I would have thought at WORST I would have had a car that would run as it did with no improvement but also with no loss in power. Now I have a car that won't even run. I've gone over the wiring a half dozen times.

HELP

Peace, Rev.

06-03-2007, 09:19 PM	#11
classof65 Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Maryville, TN Posts: 37 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	The car has grounds as follows. Braided body ground to block. ground from block to frame, ground from battery to both the engine and frame - the MSD is grounded on the battery negative. I have a ground wire from the ateering column to the engine as well. Of course there are other grounds for switches and stuff. I have disconnected all of the rpm switches that operated the retard unti and have the box wired as ignition only. I've unpluged the tach, removed the high rpm limit chip. I was attempting to cure the double or tripple pop at the launch AND the light pop at the top of the gears. All I did was add a shielded ground and now the thing won't start - well it starts and burps and grunts then quite. I've even reversed the green and purple wires in the lead as a validation. On Oh S--t I didn't mention. When I was getting ready to change the cable I thought I had turned the master switch off but hadn't and of course the first thing I did was short out the main (heavy to battery) lead to the MSD box. Not for long as it only went CRACK once. I wouldn't have thought that would hurt the box, but who knows. I wired it back to begin with the same way it was wired before - timing was checked before I did the work - yes it was skipping around and I did use a non degree wheel style lite. I would have thought at WORST I would have had a car that would run as it did with no improvement but also with no loss in power. Now I have a car that won't even run. I've gone over the wiring a half dozen times. HELP Peace, Rev.