Any Tips for Installing a Trans?

[Rory McNeil]

A couple of thoughts. First off, if you raise the back end of the car up high enough (rear tires at least a foot off the ground, even more if possible), with the front tires on the ground, you should be able to install the engine and trans together, without having to having the tailhousing pointed almost straight down. And with a 289/302, there is a good chance you could install the engine with the headers bolted to the heads. I realize my 85 Mustang has a wider engine compartment than a 65-70 (and possibly a 71-3), and my Mustangs a stick, but I install my 302 complete with the clutch and scattershield bolted on, along with the starter motor and the passenger side header. I have to install the drivers side header after, as the last tube has a slip joint, and wraps around the steering column shaft. If you don`t want to try installing the engine and trans together, I`ll go against the grain, and recommend putting the trans in first. Reason? Well, 1rst off, the trans would be attatched at the trans mount and crossmember, so you don`t have to worry about the trans sliding off the floor jack, onto your arm, hand, or head. Back in the 80s, I spent 5 years as an engine re & re man at a high volume engine rebuilding shop, and thats how we did it there, on the floor, with jackstands.On a Ford, don`t forget the block plate between the back of the block and the flexplate. Also, if the torque convertor retains the factory style studs, rotate the flexplate and convertor so a stud is at 6 O clock (straight down). And if it has a convertor drain plug , like stock, have the plug at the bottom, so if needed, you can make any minor movements to align the stud to the fleplate with a small screwdriver. By the way, I assume that you already have the firewall to shock tower braces removed, correct? Have fun!