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Old 04-20-2017, 12:32 PM   #18
cmracing
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Default Re: Ladder bar tuning / adjusting

Quote:
Originally Posted by joespanova View Post
I probably said that wrong......what I was saying is the hole geometry will "conflict" with the bars once I start moving the adjuster as much as I need to get the angle down.......in other words you really only have a limited amount of range to move /adjust.
I understand where you're coming from.

First of all, I used their bars for a long time, they are beefy for sure! And they told me they would never use a heim joint in the front, and I see why. It takes a ton of runs, but they eventually start to bend.....

When the bars and brackets are first setup you need to make some compromises. You just ran into one of those initial issues. To move your bar you may run out of adjustment range with the adjuster on the lower bar. if that is the case, you have to remove the bars completely and change the position of the upper and lower rod ends so everything will line-up once again. Pain in the butt for sure!

When I did mine I put the ladder bar in so the front was running downhill compared to the rocker panel. I have been anywhere from 1.50 to 1.2x 60fts, depending on what I was doing with the engine at the time. Has always been a Power Glide with 1.80 low gear, but rear gears ranged from 4.30's to 4.88's, and no nitrous or a lot of nitrous. It always hooked, wheelstands where an issue with a lot of spray. Used wheelie bars to control that. I never, ever mover the front of the ladder bar though.

Maybe if I wanted to hit the tree better I could experiment, but unlike a 4 link, it isn't so simple to just move the bar up or down a hole........
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