Suspension help

[njk53]

A couple of comments; Was the guy who put the roll cage in a reputable, experienced race car fabricator? If a roll bar is not put in the car correctly it can pre-load the chassis and cause a bunch of problems. The movement to the right upon shut down sounds like front end alignment to me. When you get your car aligned get a 4 wheel alignment. The rear end can be out of alignment and cause launch maladys.

Our cage was put in our car by Mike Pustelney. He also set up the rear. Since Mike does not do front end alignments, he told me to have my alignment guy to try to get these specs: 1) Castor - As much positive castor as you can get so as long as both sides are equal. 2) Camber - Set to zero. 3) Toe - Set toe 1/16" out on the right and 1/16" on the left for a total of 1/8"

Mike Pustelney is the man when it comes to chassis building. I think a lot of guys on this forum can attest to Mike P's experience. Good luck.

[Chevellewagon]

Originally Posted by njk53

A couple of comments; Was the guy who put the roll cage in a reputable, experienced race car fabricator? If a roll bar is not put in the car correctly it can pre-load the chassis and cause a bunch of problems. The movement to the right upon shut down sounds like front end alignment to me. When you get your car aligned get a 4 wheel alignment. The rear end can be out of alignment and cause launch maladys.

Our cage was put in our car by Mike Pustelney. He also set up the rear. Since Mike does not do front end alignments, he told me to have my alignment guy to try to get these specs: 1) Castor - As much positive castor as you can get so as long as both sides are equal. 2) Camber - Set to zero. 3) Toe - Set toe 1/16" out on the right and 1/16" on the left for a total of 1/8"

Mike Pustelney is the man when it comes to chassis building. I think a lot of guys on this forum can attest to Mike P's experience. Good luck.

Except for the toe I guess I wasn't too far off. I forgot to mention that the front end (before I owned it) was set up "longer" on one side by 1/2 inch for roll out. I know Moog has "dog bones" that are made for worn upper control arms that give you 5 degrees more caster over stock. I was thinking of getting those.
Thank you for the help and I need all the luck I can get.........lol.
The people on here are very helpful and I really appreciate all the advice. Thank you all.

[njk53]

Was the front and rear end hanging free in the air or was the vehicle weight placed on the the control arms and rear end to simulate it being on the ground?

[Chevellewagon]

Originally Posted by njk53

Was the front and rear end hanging free in the air or was the vehicle weight placed on the the control arms and rear end to simulate it being on the ground?

The tires were touching but he had the suspension fully extended. There was not weight on the tires(the slicks and front tires were with no sign of pressure on them. I have a feeling that is not good? I assume that means the chassis was flexed some what.

[Greg Barsamian]

Wagons have Boxed Frames, the replacement of floors wouln't make a difference unless the body mounts were were replaced.
I'd contact a chassis builder with a table or chassis beams to check and see if the frame is tweaked?
G