Suspension help

[Harry 6674]

I would try to verify that the chassis is straight and true. The addition of a rollbar shouldn't have caused the problems unless it was installed with chassis not level and well supported if you know what I mean. Or maybe the chassis was tweaked before the rollbar was installed and was corrected and the alignment will bring the handleing back Good luck.

[njk53]

A couple of comments; Was the guy who put the roll cage in a reputable, experienced race car fabricator? If a roll bar is not put in the car correctly it can pre-load the chassis and cause a bunch of problems. The movement to the right upon shut down sounds like front end alignment to me. When you get your car aligned get a 4 wheel alignment. The rear end can be out of alignment and cause launch maladys.

Our cage was put in our car by Mike Pustelney. He also set up the rear. Since Mike does not do front end alignments, he told me to have my alignment guy to try to get these specs: 1) Castor - As much positive castor as you can get so as long as both sides are equal. 2) Camber - Set to zero. 3) Toe - Set toe 1/16" out on the right and 1/16" on the left for a total of 1/8"

Mike Pustelney is the man when it comes to chassis building. I think a lot of guys on this forum can attest to Mike P's experience. Good luck.

[Chevellewagon]

Originally Posted by Harry 6674

I would try to verify that the chassis is straight and true. The addition of a rollbar shouldn't have caused the problems unless it was installed with chassis not level and well supported if you know what I mean. Or maybe the chassis was tweaked before the rollbar was installed and was corrected and the alignment will bring the handleing back Good luck.

The guy who put in the roll bar has done them before. Now that I think about it he did replace some rusted floor panels before installing the bar. He had the car suspended with 4 jack stands during all the work. Maybe the frame got miss aligned when replacing the floors before putting in the bars.

[Chevellewagon]

Originally Posted by njk53

A couple of comments; Was the guy who put the roll cage in a reputable, experienced race car fabricator? If a roll bar is not put in the car correctly it can pre-load the chassis and cause a bunch of problems. The movement to the right upon shut down sounds like front end alignment to me. When you get your car aligned get a 4 wheel alignment. The rear end can be out of alignment and cause launch maladys.

Our cage was put in our car by Mike Pustelney. He also set up the rear. Since Mike does not do front end alignments, he told me to have my alignment guy to try to get these specs: 1) Castor - As much positive castor as you can get so as long as both sides are equal. 2) Camber - Set to zero. 3) Toe - Set toe 1/16" out on the right and 1/16" on the left for a total of 1/8"

Mike Pustelney is the man when it comes to chassis building. I think a lot of guys on this forum can attest to Mike P's experience. Good luck.

Except for the toe I guess I wasn't too far off. I forgot to mention that the front end (before I owned it) was set up "longer" on one side by 1/2 inch for roll out. I know Moog has "dog bones" that are made for worn upper control arms that give you 5 degrees more caster over stock. I was thinking of getting those.
Thank you for the help and I need all the luck I can get.........lol.
The people on here are very helpful and I really appreciate all the advice. Thank you all.

[njk53]

Was the front and rear end hanging free in the air or was the vehicle weight placed on the the control arms and rear end to simulate it being on the ground?

[Chevellewagon]

Originally Posted by njk53

Was the front and rear end hanging free in the air or was the vehicle weight placed on the the control arms and rear end to simulate it being on the ground?

The tires were touching but he had the suspension fully extended. There was not weight on the tires(the slicks and front tires were with no sign of pressure on them. I have a feeling that is not good? I assume that means the chassis was flexed some what.

[Greg Barsamian]

Wagons have Boxed Frames, the replacement of floors wouln't make a difference unless the body mounts were were replaced.
I'd contact a chassis builder with a table or chassis beams to check and see if the frame is tweaked?
G

[Jim Hanig]

Originally Posted by Rick Kagawa

I have an A body. A C/SA 1970 Chevelle. If you are using the stock suspension, you will have the A body lean.

My suggestion is to call Alf Weibe. He has the A Body suspension wired. I have been using his parts for seven years. His supension launches straight without any lean. I have seen others that have a straight launching car without his suspension. They are rare and require a lot of work. I wanted a perfect launch out of the box. He has really helped me make my car fast and straight.

The NHRA has lately been giving him a hard time. I understand that he has a solution that is acceptable to the NHRA tech department

Here is his email: wiebemetal@shaw.ca

Rick Kagawa

Rick they check the chevelle i drove at houston said alfs stuff is not legal. Jim Hanig

[njk53]

I always thought the correct way to install a roll cage is to have the wheels planted firmly on a level surface but, I am not a pro chassis builder. I agree with Greg, contact a good chassis builder and have him check the frame for straightness. Floor pan replacement on your car should have no effect on the chassis. If you have a unibody it is a different story.

[Chevellewagon]

Originally Posted by njk53

I always thought the correct way to install a roll cage is to have the wheels planted firmly on a level surface but, I am not a pro chassis builder. I agree with Greg, contact a good chassis builder and have him check the frame for straightness. Floor pan replacement on your car should have no effect on the chassis. If you have a unibody it is a different story.

Much thanks to you and all who took the time to answer my questions. You guys are great! Wish me luck in trying to get her out this year.
Phil