Turbo Stockers

[Jimi B]

Originally Posted by Rob Lloyd

Don't fool it, just reprogram it!

What he said^^^^^

If everything goes the way it suppose to and I get out there in Stock next year, it will be my first reall attempt at bracket racing a turbo car. I am a little afraid that .05 off will not be to uncommon. I think the boost off the line will be the key.

Ah well, I have no grandiose dreams of going rounds unless heads up runs. A record, and a number 1 qualifying spot will be my goal next year. From there I will see if I will campaign the car a second year, or move on to a consistent car.

[art leong]

Best of luck. have fun.
One thing I believe to be true is, don't mess with the hairdryer. All the cars I know that don't do that, are consistent. My car almost always ran the number (within a hundreth or two). But my reaction times were so bad I couldn't go rounds.
Mark Poole in a turbododge finished in second place points in stock/superstock combo 2 years in a row at the "Hill" in Nashville. And there were a bunch of heavy hitters running there back then. So you can go rounds. My car was most consistent running it hard, running overweight but not shortshifting or playing with the boost..

[Rob Lloyd]

Originally Posted by art leong

Best of luck. have fun.
One thing I believe to be true is, don't mess with the hairdryer. All the cars I know that don't do that, are consistent. My car almost always ran the number (within a hundreth or two). But my reaction times were so bad I couldn't go rounds.
Mark Poole in a turbododge finished in second place points in stock/superstock combo 2 years in a row at the "Hill" in Nashville. And there were a bunch of heavy hitters running there back then. So you can go rounds. My car was most consistent running it hard, running overweight but not shortshifting or playing with the boost..

You ran a manual boost controller, right? Not computer control? I think that helps. The computer has adaptives that are always adjusting the wastegate to keep the boost (and knock) under control. I'm going to turn off all the adaptives this year and see if I can't get some consistency out of the thing. It's really strange - it will run severals passes in the same range, and then it will be off 0.2 for no apparent reason. I think it's the computer trying to take over...

I also think boost and traction off the line are key. Because turbos need load to spool; the better your traction, the faster the boost will build. I think getting the traction off the line consistent is key. And, that's doubly hard if you're FWD becuase the 'groove' is 8ft behind your slicks...

[Marc Kinton]

Rob, have you tried the battery disconnect method? going to test Saturday and def. try this out. What about rear tire pressure? currently runnin 14 lbs but we're gonna try to play with that saturday too. What gauges you guys want me to look at and note? Want to bring all the information back to the forum that i can. I too just want consistency and then we'll start worrying about "other" stuff.

[Jimi B]

When you are talking about computer controlled boost, are you speaking of electronic boost controller, or the factory computer. Sorry, do not know much about turbo dodges. I havent decided what boost control I am going to run. Im sure at first it will be a manual.

[Dennis P Chapman]

What brand of car are you building.

[Jimi B]

Plymouth, Mitsubishi, or Eagle. Haven't decided what I am badging it yet lol.

Since this is my thread, I don't mind going off topic. I am having troubles deciding between running the trim for the Plymouth Laser, Mitsubishi Eclipse, or Eagle Talon. Multiple reasons for and against. The Plymouth, and Eagle brands are defunct. Mitsubishi... Well, forced induction in class racing already has a stigma of its own, don't really want to add any more fuel to the fire. I lean toward Plymouth, because I grew up on Mopars, and my father runs Super Street in Div 3 with a Challenger. They also weigh the least. Eagle, is my personal choice as far aesthetics go. The car I am starting with is a Mitsubishi, so it would require the least work before paint. It would also be nice to run a car that the manufacturer is still in business.

So any input?