One or two batteries for Stock Elim.

[FED 387]

if you run a MSD box and the voltage gets below 10.5 volts YOU MIGHT GET high speed misses---- the more the battery is charged the better off you are--Comp 387

[Alan Warman]

What about the black boxes that keep the voltage at a constant 16V even if the battery
voltage drops below 10V. We have one in our bracket car and it seems to work good, I can't remember who made it though. But here is one like on this web site.

techwest@techwestracing.com,

[magnumv8]

I just want to clarifly some info in your discussion....there is two posts for putting two batteries in series...do not do this as it will DOUBLE your total battery output that the vehicle "sees"...series is when you wire two batteries positive to negative with each other...in this scenario 2-12 volt batteries become one 24 volt battery, 2-16 volt becomes one 32 volt battery etc.....I am sure it was meant to wire them in PARALLEL, which is positive to positve, negative to negative, in this manner your voltage remains either 12 volt or 16 volt but it also gives you the advantage that you now have the current available to start and run high compression and high powered ignition system with no problems because you get the current as a total of BOTH batteries at once...also in stock if they decide to test your "dual" batteries, they both better be able to start the car seperately or they will be considered illegal ballast.....

D L RAMBO

[Chris "drooze" Wertman]

Originally Posted by magnumv8

also in stock if they decide to test your "dual" batteries, they both better be able to start the car seperately or they will be considered illegal ballast.....

D L RAMBO

On that, if the car came with a trunk mounted battery I have to from what I understand run that in the "Stock Location" ....where can I put the other one ? (yes I know it says in the trunk) is there any limit to where in the trunk I can mount it without them (tech) twitching.

Any problem say with mouting it right over my axle line offset for the best r/l weight dist ?

[GTX JOHN]

Over the Axle is as good as any in my opinion.... left or right depends on what your 4 wheel scales tell you... See you in Feb. PS Both Bats supposed to be same type and weight

[Chris "drooze" Wertman]

The funny part is I dont want to put another one in (even though I need to) Just because it looks so damm perty in there the way it is....

I spent probably 4 days alone on the trunk in paint and mounting and detailing, cutting firewall, ald this that and the other, now I gotta add something thall make all that work look like ****

I think it looks perty damm good.....Now Ive got to muck up the visual for another battery.

BUT its the right and legal way to do it so......but dosent have to make me happy.

Pomonas gonna be close, at a minimum well have only 1 day testing on the car......that dosent thrill me. But it is what it is....Im calling in some help from other sports (motorsports) to chip in and finish the build, Im calling in my favor chips which I never do, but need to. My dad and son both being in the hospital at the same time in the last 2 weeks hasnt helped my timing, but it was what it was and the priority was them, my son just got out yesterday, so its damm the torpedos and full speed ahead.

Originally Posted by GTX JOHN

Over the Axle is as good as any in my opinion.... left or right depends on what your 4 wheel scales tell you... See you in Feb. PS Both Bats supposed to be same type and weight

[Eric Merryfield]

Why do you need two.......nitrous bottle warmer? Unless you are going to run SS without the altenator. Put it in the weight box if need be. I don't think you will be needing to add weight to make class unless your driver is a 98 lb championship horse jockey in addition to being a driver of note.

Whats you car going to weigh race ready?

Eric

QUOTE=drooze;163190]The funny part is I dont want to put another one in (even though I need to) Just because it looks so damm perty in there the way it is....

I spent probably 4 days alone on the trunk in paint and mounting and detailing, cutting firewall, ald this that and the other, now I gotta add something thall make all that work look like ****

I think it looks perty damm good.....Now Ive got to muck up the visual for another battery.

BUT its the right and legal way to do it so......but dosent have to make me happy.

Pomonas gonna be close, at a minimum well have only 1 day testing on the car......that dosent thrill me. But it is what it is....Im calling in some help from other sports (motorsports) to chip in and finish the build, Im calling in my favor chips which I never do, but need to. My dad and son both being in the hospital at the same time in the last 2 weeks hasnt helped my timing, but it was what it was and the priority was them, my son just got out yesterday, so its damm the torpedos and full speed ahead.



[/QUOTE]

[Danny Ashley]

Thanks to everyone for your replys. Drove the firebird back 600+miles with no problems. Hope it's that reliable on the track. Danny

[magnumv8]

drooze.....just remember that the secondary battery still has to be able to START the car as well as the primary battery (NHRA regs)....and as a side note... I personally won't use "deep cycle" marine type batteries anymore because they do not like to provide FULL cranking power on a start up...they are designed to allow as much power as possible while going to a full discharge of voltage.....I burned up 2 optima yellow tops before I found this out and now will avoid the deep cycle batteries for that reason....

D L Rambo....

[Chris "drooze" Wertman]

Check....

Im sure the other would start the car even after 5 or 10 passes, since its only going to be running fans, water pump and some electronics....IF I need it.

Good to know on the deep cycles, I bought it for that reason, not the cranking amps, but if I end up with issues Ill know where to look.

Thanks for the note.

But very good to know....I was going to get one of those 400 cell lithium jobs till I saw the price ....Ive got some other ideas on that front later, heck a battery is easy enough to swap out....and cheap....Im always about 6 batteries short around here anyway the one thats in there was priamarily for testing (hence the deep cycle, wiring, load testing etc)....well see how it does from Dyno-Track.

A change may be in order though.

Thanks again

Cheers

Chris

Originally Posted by magnumv8

drooze.....just remember that the secondary battery still has to be able to START the car as well as the primary battery (NHRA regs)....and as a side note... I personally won't use "deep cycle" marine type batteries anymore because they do not like to provide FULL cranking power on a start up...they are designed to allow as much power as possible while going to a full discharge of voltage.....I burned up 2 optima yellow tops before I found this out and now will avoid the deep cycle batteries for that reason....

D L Rambo....